Hi,

i’ve made the bypass Method on both Displays.
The right screen works fine. But on the left one are many “Dead Lines”

I checked any soldering point a hundred times…..
Picture 1 and Picture 2

Maybe anyone have’n idea. :-/

Hey, cool! A fellow “bypasser” 😀

That soldering looks a little crude, but I guess if you really checked it for shorts it should be ok… also, are you sure you didn’t burn any traces?

But what kind of wires are you using? It looks like they have no insulation at all?? 😯

If it’s bare copper there could be a short anywhere along the cables…

Hi,

i don’t know the English Word for the cabel, the German is “Kupferlackkabel”. It’s a cabel with Lacquer on it, if you heat it up it lost his isolation on the end of the Cabel.

I really think there are no shorts. i soldered the cabel 3times complete new.

i destroyed 4 Soldering pins ( circle on the Picture )but there are 4 alternative points, so i don’t think thats the Problem. :/

Maybe the lacquer has worn off someplace where it shouldn’t?

Are the lines in the display constant? That is, can it be narrowed down to a specific wire? Then it must be either a short or a missing connection.

Try measuring not just between adjacent wires on the same side of the cable, but between the motherboard and the display board as well. Then you can see if there is any connection that doesn’t work at all.

I think DogP made some test program that can be run on the vb to find out which wire is bad? Never tried it though…

If your problem is dead lines, and you’re using magnet wire, and you’re relying on the soldering iron to remove the lacquer from the wire, I’d suspect that you have some “cold joints” where the insulation is still on one or both ends of some of the wires, preventing a connection.

Proper procedure for magnet wire is to burn the lacquer with a flame and buff off the char with emery cloth or sandpaper. I would at least do the former (which can be done to a whole bundle of wires at once) and use plenty of flux to help remove the char during soldering. You may also want to slightly increase the iron’s temp, if possible, though that increases the likelihood of lifting a pad/trace, so be careful and only do it if necessary.

Not a bad job so far, though. I wish I had the patience to try the “bypass” method 😉

DanB wrote:
I think DogP made some test program that can be run on the vb to find out which wire is bad? Never tried it though…

Yeah, if you have a flash cart, you can determine which lines are bad with this: http://www.planetvb.com/modules/games/?h051g .

I doubt you have any shorts, or both sides would have lines (all the signals are shared between the two displays except a select signal), but it’s definitely possible that there’s a bad connection from the solder to the wire. I have also seen displays die from too much heat, if you weren’t careful while soldering.

DogP

DogP schrieb:

DanB wrote:
I think DogP made some test program that can be run on the vb to find out which wire is bad? Never tried it though…

Yeah, if you have a flash cart, you can determine which lines are bad with this: http://www.planetvb.com/modules/games/?h051g .

I doubt you have any shorts, or both sides would have lines (all the signals are shared between the two displays except a select signal), but it’s definitely possible that there’s a bad connection from the solder to the wire. I have also seen displays die from too much heat, if you weren’t careful while soldering.

DogP

[size=xx-small]Please excuse if my English is not so good.

Thats…. I….. I don’t understand it. I test the Display with this very nice tool ( Many thx DogP for made this ! ). And there are NO DEAD LINES on the right screen. Not even one!!! Then i played BoundHigh (or any other Game) and the dead lines occur again. At the VB titel screen they are not visible, first one on the “Automatic Pause Screen” i can see it.

?????

When i turn the “IPD” Switch, sometimes a few but not all dead lines disappear.

If moving the IPD switch changes it, you almost certainly have bad connections somewhere, since that physically moves the displays.

DogP

When i run your Test-Programm, I can move the IPD Switch as many times as I want. Nothing happened. That makes no sense, right?

It’s likely that you either have a problem that’s not tested in my test program, you’re not testing all possibilities, or you’re just not noticing the problem in the test. Have you tried pressing B to cycle between shades? And have you looked in both eyes very closely looking for differences?

From the screenshot, IMO it looks like you’ve got one or more pins that aren’t connected. I say that because the lines seem to follow close colors (dark colors turn black, light colors turn bright), which happens with floating inputs.

Both displays share all the same lines except pin 2. Check continuity with an ohmmeter between all pins from the left display to the right display (on the non-soldered copper traces). This will prove continuity from the display through the solder to the wire and to the motherboard for both sides.

DogP