[Maraakate]

Hello,

I’ve read the countless threads and methods on how to fix the glitchy cables. I did not have a toaster oven available to me and I did not want to run up to the store and buy chemicals.

I have found out if use Carburetor Cleaner on the side where the copper contacts are and spray it LIGHTLY and let it soak in for a minute or so it will start to eat away the clear part of the ribbon, exposing the copper. If you don’t let it soak in as long you can actually weaken the plastic enough to start peeling it back and expose the copper. Simply retrace the solder points like you would if you did the toaster oven method.

I did not have a low wattage soldering iron. I only had the generic 35 watt iron you can buy at radio shack. I’m pretty used to working with this stuff, but other people might not be. Basically, take some flux and lightly spread it across. Don’t use too much or it may bubble and could make the tracks shift or the solder connect traces. Take a very small amount of solder on your tip and lightly run across each trace one by one. You will probably connect a trace no matter what. Just be careful on getting it off. It’s not impossible.

The first time I tried this I ruined the plastic for the LED on the other side, so be sure to put something on top of it and tape it so nothing will soak through and damage it. Luckily I have a few broken VBs so it wasn’t a big deal.

This has worked great for me so far and I’m sure some of you have some carburetor cleaner laying around. If you don’t you may be able to use acetone but I haven’t personally tried this.

• This topic was modified 13 years, 8 months ago by Maraakate.
• This topic was modified 13 years, 8 months ago by Maraakate.

Interesting… I tried a lot of different chemicals, but not carb cleaner. I’ll have to give that a try next time. While NaOH isn’t difficult to work with, it does require putting into a dish and heating with a drop of water… spray can is much easier. 😉

What tipped me off to NaOH working was looking at the MSDS of polyimide (the coating that FFC uses). It basically said it’s resistant to most chemicals, except hot NaOH.

Does it actually dissolve the coating, or just break the adhesive bond between the polyimide and the copper, causing it to peel back. Of course either one gives you nice access to the bare copper, but I’m just curious.

And yes, just like any method… you’ve gotta protect that window. You should actually be able to use it with the window removed, or swap windows with another (more dead) display though.

DogP

Breaks the bond. But it can eat away at it with a little heat applied from the iron as well. You gotta time it just right. I had it work out once.

I figured you could remove the window but I’m sure dust gets in there easier. I may have saved the piece. Maybe I should try and pop it off and see.