A problem often encountered by Virtual Boy users are glitchy displays, leading to horizontal lines, reversed or generally distorted images, or even complete loss of display activity.
All those symptoms are usually caused by the ribbon cables connecting the LEDs to the motherboard becoming loose, or peeling away from the display PCB.
Fixing your Diplay: Oven method
DogP has come up with a way to fix the problem by opening the system up, removing the display, sticking it in the oven to re-melt the adhesive, and reassemble. It’s not a difficult procedure, except that the typical security bit can’t get to the deepest screws on the VB, so you either need a special screwdiver, a modified bit, or a modified screwdriver.
You can find a guide to fix your displays on DogP’s Project:VB.
Fixing your Diplay: Bypass method
Another way has been proposed by DanB. To permanently fix the problem, his idea was to replace the loosening ribbon cables with some better wires, which he soldered to the PCB. This solution requires much more skill, though, and should only be performed by solder experienced people with a steady hand and a huge portion of patience.
The complete guide can be found here.
Fixing your Diplay: New methods (RECOMMENDED)
Some more methods have recently been developed by DogP to permanently fix the cable problem (contrary to the probably non-permanent oven method): Thread.
Hey,
I haven’t been around much lately, but over the last couple years, I’ve repaired quite a few displays, and tweaked my process a little bit. I don’t think I’ve ever posted about it, so while I was fixing a few displays this weekend, I figured I’d take some pics and post.
I used to use NaOH to chemically “eat” the polyimide coating on the cable, but it’s kinda inconvenient to use when you’re just doing a couple displays here and there (prep, cleanup, etc). It also requires caution, to make sure none gets on the window, since it’ll damage it.
I’ve seen that some people just use a ball of solder to melt the polyimide, and it works, but I don’t like the amount of heat that the cable is subjected to (you can see the copper seperate from the coating farther up the cable and move around a bit). So, I was looking for a way to seperate the coating from the copper without heat or chemicals. I ended up figuring out that a fiberglass pen, when rubbed “against the grain” (upward, from the PCB to the cable) leaves the copper attached to the PCB, but peels the coating away. Just use firm pressure, and brush like you were trying to rub sticker goo off a window. Once you get one spot started, just work your way across the rest of the display. It takes less than a minute to do the whole thing. It also cleans up the copper really nicely, preparing it for soldering.
Oh, and if you’re not familiar with fiberglass pens… BE VERY CAREFUL. The fibers are very small and break off. Use caution not to get them in your fingers or eyes. Getting fiberglass stuck in your fingers is really annoying… for several days, you’ll randomly feel a sharp stabbing feeling when grabbing something… and fiberglass in your eye is similar, but more painful. 😛
Once the copper is exposed, just run the line of solder across the display like normal, using a little bit of flux… then clean it up, inspect, and you’re done. Of course it doesn’t look quite as nice as using NaOH, since the peeled coating melts and blobs up a bit… but it works perfectly, and hopefully it’ll never break again, so nobody will ever see it. 🙂
Oh, and before I start, I stick a piece of masking tape over the window, to protect it from fingerprints, scratches, etc. while I’m working on it.
Also, I’ve noticed lately on a few displays that the connection to the motherboard has been iffy. When I push the cable all the way in, I can feel it get a bit looser, and the display gets some glitches. Just backing the cable out a tiny bit makes it perfect again. There’s plenty of tension in the connector that you shouldn’t need to worry about it pushing back in or falling out, but if you’re really worried, a dab of RTV across the cable and connector should ensure it doesn’t move.
Anyway… hopefully someone finds this helpful.
DogP
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Ok I have absolutely no i dea what is going on with my vb. When i am up close to it with my face pressed right into the visor it looks fine with only ocasional glitch ups when the image on screen suddenly changes ect, but when you pull your face back and look through the left eyepiece (Right looks fine even from distance) it goes all fuzzy and glitches up. I dont think its glitchy display and why does it go all wonky when you move away any guesses?
1st image is up close 2nd is glitch up
