You can always reflash one to VGA output.
I’ve made some small batches of them before and the servo emus, but I’m out of stock again.

[Alterac]

Just going to update this.

It appears that the SRAM Chip I was using, is not 100% compatible with the original from Furrteks BOM.
Nothing is wrong with the VirtualTap or install, just the wrong memory chip.

I was using a Renesas 71V016SA12PHG, but we need to use the ISSI IS61WV6416BLL-12TLI as it works perfectly.

Datasheets of working SRAM:
BOM SRAM IC – IS61WV6416BLL-12TLI
– http://www.issi.com/WW/pdf/61-64WV6416BLL.pdf
ISSI Recommends their new replacement (not tested) – IS61WV6416DBLL
– http://www.issi.com/WW/pdf/61-64WV6416DAxx-DBxx.pdf

Chip that didnt work (I did update the pin assignments to account for the address lines numbered differently)
– https://www.idt.com/us/en/document/dst/71v016sa-datasheet

• This reply was modified 4 years ago by Alterac.

Vb uses 5v internally.

You could bypass the onboard 5v regulator and build your own high efficiency boost-buck switching regulator, combined with a rc network for the delay power good signal. Combine this with a lipo charging circuit and a usb c port and that takes care of powering and charging the system.

Could most likely smash together something of the shelf to do it to.

The link in the first post is updated, the pcb, schematic and Bill of materials are there.

No problem, Ive now completly redesigned it, and is now using a very high efficiency switching regulator circuit.
I’ve also cut down the size to almost the exact size of the stock one.

Should be plug and play.

Thats my little creation based on information found here and my own investigation.

Basically its a simple linear regulator replacement for the original switching buck regulator.

I did bench test the design and it had no issues, but i have not tested it long term. I also have not had the PCB produced for it.

Ideally It should be a switching regulator also to get the best efficiency possible to have your batteries last the longest, but I figure many people are using the power adapter anyways.

I did get mine to work using Oshpark, and then needed to clean them up a fair amount.

I found 1200 grit wetsand on the castellated edge took off 99% of the excess plating, and allowed me to sand it down to ensure their is enough space between the holes.

I have not tried to solder my adapter to a led board yet.

My design pcb is up on EasyEDA, but it needs a bit of work of rework of the pcb size to fit perfectly.

I’m also going to be designing a 3d printed bracket to eliminate any wiggle (room permitting)

Looks like a great solution.

Which PCB Fab was able to make castellated holes that close together?

My usual fabs (JLPCB, PCBWay, Osh, etc) dont let me have less than 0.6mm.