[Dr Honda]

Just wanted to do a follow up on this….

I just got the one in my shop running correctly. BUT… there wasn’t a single “There it is” kind of problem. I think it’s a combination of several things. I first looked at the photo gates. They were clean, and working correctly using normal test methods for an LED and phototransistor. But, I gave them a physical cleaning. Next I checked the Xtl on the servo board. It seemed ok, but I was reading a higher overtone. (but confirmed on a working VB) I took apart, and cleaned all the connections, (including the little ground clips) and I resealed the ribbons for the LED arrays. (My typical LED repair) I then reflowed all the connections on the servo board, (looking for a cold joint) and replaced the capacitors. One of the caps MAY HAVE BEEN out of range… but they were not “Dead” by any means. (only slightly higher resistance over the new ones)

Oh… and did some other basics like verified power stability. And when I said “Cleaned the connections”… I used IPA and a cotton swab to make sure they were electrical clean.

At this point… it was better, but it would still blink and image, and over scan… and then settle back.

From there… I looked at the 2 pin connectors on each of the Galvo’s. I thought maybe they had some corrosion behind them… so I wetted them with IPA, and gave them a little twist back and forth. I also decided to replace the caps on the main board since there was only 4.

At each step… when I would check… it would seem slightly better. After I finished giving it a full service… (caps, cleaning, reseating) it seems like it’s working. I’ve had it powered on for 35 min or so, and I haven’t heard the mirrors “Rattle” because of being overdriven. And every time I look in… the picture is stable. If it stays good for another 30 min… I will call it done, and send it back to the customer.

I don’t like when it’s not a clean, “smoking gun” kind of fix… but lets face it… it’s a strange system, and a bunch of small issues could combine and lead to the overdriving, and unstable servo.

Hope that helps.

• This reply was modified 3 years, 7 months ago by Dr Honda.

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[Dr Honda]

I just got one like this in my shop today. This one is the right side. I’ve fixed a bunch of bad ribbons, and a couple power supplies… but never a servo driver. I’ll be tinkering with it. I’ll post up if I figure it out.

So far… I’ve had the mirror settle down… but you will see the screen blink. Then… it will over oscillate. (To the point of hitting it’s stop)

• This reply was modified 3 years, 7 months ago by Dr Honda.

Hi guys.

My personal VB is well over a year now with quite a bit of play time. AND… I often put it in my case, and take it to family gatherings… so I’m not babying it at all. I’m guessing the clamps are the real saving point. Once sealed back down… the extra pressure helps.

Not exactly sure what you are asking about the motherboard, as it really only fits one way. But the controller should be simple. Take it apart… clean the pads… make sure the wires are connected… and put it back together. I’ve had a few controllers in bad shape come across my workbench, and all of them worked after a good cleaning.

If you can be a little more specific on the MB… I will try to help with an answer.

Ok… Got waterworld done, and oh my gosh is it a bad game! LoL. Why would anyone pay the $150 for this one!!! Anyway… Only need to build 3D teris and i will have the complete USA set. (All the rest are original) the label on this one isn’t as nice. I couldn’t find a good high res picture of it. Oh well… Not a big deal.

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Just wanted to post a few pics of the programmer screen. Its a tiny OLED, but its very clear.

Sorry some of the pics are sideways. They are coming off my phone that way.

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[Dr Honda]

BigDen wrote:
Very nice work! But on the other hand: I see there a danger for collectors who look for the originals from a collecting prospective. How is it possible to see the difference to original carts? I mean, the label looks really like the original on the picture. Even the quality-logo exists. This could also lead to people trying to fool others when these appear on eBay… 🤔 Maybe I am a bit sensitive, but this was in my mind.

Sure… I understand. There are already tons of repro carts for other systems on ebay, and it is getting harder, and harder to actually spot them. But in this case… the red boards are a dead giveaway… and it actually says “Reproduction” on the top right corner of the board. With that said… sure, someone else (over seas) may decide to make up some and pass them off as real. But it’s going to take an investment to make the shells and end connectors for a VERY small market of people.

Oh… one last thing… yes, the board is a giveaway… but the vast majority of Nintendo games have a couple numbers physically stamped into the label. With the VB, it’s middle right. Any good picture will show those.

But… as with any “Collecting”… you have to know what you are looking at, and if it’s real or not.

Fyi… Here’s VB, GBA, and Pokemon Mini carts, all with stamped numbers. The only games I’ve come across (with a good label) that don’t have the numbers, were usually the “Pack-in” games.

• This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by Dr Honda.

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Ethan.Snyder98 wrote:
Very cool and impressive work! Especially like how that label looks, from the photo it looks nearly like the original. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this!

Thanks. The label worked out better than I thought. Originally I was just going to print it with an inkjet, and cover it with packing tape for a glossy finish. But when I was cleaning up from Christmas, I was looking at a few pictures in my kid’s room, and thought how nice they looked. And it was of those “Duh” moments that the Sprocket printer is the ideal tool. (They go on sale at best buy for $50)

As far as what to do with this… well… just play some games. It’s not 100% original work, and Mellott is going to make some very nice flash carts.

mellott124 wrote:
Nice job on the carts! Glad it all worked out.
Impressive on the programmer as well.

Thanks, your boards really helped. Right now, I’m waiting on a few SRAM chips. Once they show, I can build the 3D Tetris cart. I got lucky on the donors. The local used game shop had some Tennis carts, and sold them to me for $8 each. I got 4 from him.

The programmer still needs some work. I want to clean it up, and make it more manageable. FYI… my cart plug is a cart turned around, and I use “Ultra Fine Needles” to make the connections, They are sharp, and will insert to the target cart easy. They are 0.50mm and stiff. I tried to use stainless wire first, but it was too bendy.

The up side to this programmer, is something I asked you about with the one you built. This one is self contained. The USB cable is just for power in that picture. SO, once I Get it cleaned up… it will be battery powered, and fully standalone !! I will do a separate thread on it later… but it may be a while… work is picking up, and I will be traveling more.

looks great !!

Just an update, and FYI… as I said in my post above… they are cheap. SO… I actually did just buy a second one to leave sealed. ($13 shipped) There are a lot out there, cut it open and play it.

…… If you ever get the connectors done consider selling them for people to self assemble too. …

Yep… that’s the way to do it. Put the pins, and plastic connector housing in a baggy, and sell it that way.

They are a neat system that got no love… and that’s why they are expensive now. Most of them will have video issues, but it’s a easy fix. Honestly… just depends on the price. I paid $70 in good shape, with 2 games… but has the vid issues. Took me all of 15 min to get her up and running. That same system in “Working” condition would be +$200 on the market today.

Be aware… most games are $20’ish dollars. Nester’s bowling is around $45/$50 and Waterworld, Jack Bros, 3D Tetris can run you upward of $500 !!!!!! (USA Versions)

Oh,,, and the blockbuster case can get +$200 alone. Don’t know why… there are a bunch out there.

So… look at the condition and the games… and go from there.

Thanks!

Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year to you.

mellott124 wrote:

malick[ai] wrote:
Are both options sold out now? I got a VB for Christmas and am looking to buy one. I have a donor I can spare too.

Yes all sold out. There should be a second batch in around April or May timeframe.

Wow… that’s great ! I guess I will get in on the second batch.

Oh… FYI… I got the boards you sent out to me before Xmas. Thanks !! I’ll post up once I get my programmer sorted out.

ok. thanks guys. I’ll just leave them alone.

Yep… don’t feel bad. I got mine NIB and only paid $14 for it. Because they are so cheap… I may buy a second one just to keep in the box.

very nice work !

You normally don’t even need any new solder. BUT… if you have some no-clean flux… put a little around each of the chips on the servo board, and just touch each pin. I set my iron around 325, and it just takes a second. You will see each pin turn bright.

Needless to say… if you have a hot air re-work station… that would be the preferred method.

Good luck, and let us know what you find.

Over the years, I’ve had a bunch of cartridges that will have issues because of a cold solder joint on a surface mount chip. Matter of fact… I had a strange one last night. The game would read, but then wouldn’t start because it couldn’t make a save file. Went down to the shop… touched each pin of the RAM chip with a fine point soldering iron… and I was playing Zelda Oracle of Ages on my Gameboy player. (Gamecube)

Anyway… since it’s starting, and making sound… I’m guessing there is a cold joint on the servo driver board. Or… the cable going from the servo board to the main board has a bad connection.

Like Mellott said… set up the IPD. It is part of the set up, but I don’t remember if you had to do it to get started. Just go into settings, and you will see it. It makes the image sharper also.

I’ve had my PSVR for a couple years now, and I love it. At first, I got a little motion sickness… but as you play, you get immune to it. One of my favorite games is Arizona Sunshine. I’ve played through it twice. Oh… and grab the rifle controller also. Makes for a good time.