Not really sure what’s going on, maybe there’s a contact issue with one or multiple CLK* lines ? They’re basically PWM signals generated from the values you gave, and they’re right in the center of the ribbon cable: http://furrtek.free.fr/?a=vbtvout
Never experimented by disconnecting them so I can’t tell if what you’re getting is clearly a sign of contact failure.
They’re shared with both display though, so if the other display has correct shades then you can be sure the signals are generated ok.
Thanks for sharing ! Glad it’s working fine.
It never happened but I’m always a bit worried that a weak solder point might crack because of shocks and temperature differences when shipping hand-assembled boards.
Thanks also for reminding me about the 5V line info. I was ready to add it to the final instructions but since I have to make another revision of the board, I’ll add a “SCART switch voltage” pad on it directly.
RunnerPack: I do have troubles seeing artificial depth in 3D movies, polarized or active. The 3DS and the similar lenticular advertisment displays work, but it still isn’t great. Only the VB really worked for me.
That’s why I asked other people to try the anaglyph output, but maybe they also had a similar “handicap”.
Technically speaking, it could be done on my board with just an additionnal wire and maybe a larger CPLD. Might try proposing it for people who are sure that the effect works for them.
So you tried it, right ? You tried anaglyph mode in fullscreen on a 24″ monitor or projector, standing less than 3 meters away and the depth illusion worked ?
I’m sorry but I only see 2 flickering pictures. The max separation I get on Teleroboxer is about 6cm, which is way too large to work.
I’d question my sight but the 3 other people who tried it said the same thing (didn’t condition their answer, just asked if it worked).
Really wondering (no sarcasm) if it works for you, and if it’s the case, would like to understand !
Didn’t join sooner because I didn’t have much to share apart from research on the LED display. Even if that could have been a reason, everything’s already on my website. Not very suitable to start a discussion :p
Originally I planned to only sell the board to mod shops, as I really didn’t want to deal with people not following instructions and breaking everything.
That’s why I’m only proposing the bare bones kit right now. Maybe I’ll add an option to buy it pre-wired with the appropriate connectors later on.
The reason for having two versions is simply cost reduction. The logic for both versions couldn’t fit in the CPLD I currently use. To fit both, I’d have to use a larger, more expensive chip.
So in the end, the price would have been (slightly) higher and half of the logic would be wasted anyways.
About the 50/60Hz mismatch, I could change the NTSC version to provide a 50Hz output if interest is high enough. Otherwise the mismatch is dealt with the buffer mode jumper: you can either chose to have a single buffer (tearing, max 1-frame lag) or a double buffer (no tearing, 1-2 frame lag).
Sorry for the quick reply, if something needs to be detailed more, poke me !
Just registered to say this: there’s no soldering of the ribbon cable required. There are two connectors: one for the provided ribbon cable that goes to the main board, and one for the original display’s ribbon cable.
The only soldering required is for the video output and palette switch (7 wires max.)
I’ll make that clearer on the page and the install manual soon.
