Glue should be sufficient to make a thicker block. Also bear in mind that you may want multiple foam pieces, one to cradle the stuff in and one to place over the top.
Encouraging piracy on our fair forums? O-:
I have a dead pair of displays you can have. Neither displays anything at all.
pollo20x6 wrote:
I keep reading that teleroboxer is like punch out, which can get really difficult to the point of frustration.
You need to read things from people who have played Punch-Out instead. The things you’re reading are quite uninformed. (-:
Punch-Out is a puzzle game. Teleroboxer is a sports game.
Lester Knight wrote:
my goal is to eventually find the correct type of foam to place inside so that i can cut out the shapes i need to make it a complete case.
Also make sure the inter-pupil distance (IPD) is set correctly. This is most often the cause of eye strain, and even occurs with the Nintendo 3DS if you hold that device the wrong distance from your eyes.
On the screen with the Virtual Boy logo, there are four “VB” squares in the corners of the screen. Looking directly at the Virtual Boy logo itself, those four corner squares should look like they form a rectangle. If they form a trapezoid of any kind, then your IDP setting is incorrect and you risk a high likelihood of eye strain.
Even stranger is that no Virtual Boy uses NTSC to begin with. (-:
What do you mean by NTSC?
Also, that box is in very good shape. I wasn’t sure they were still out there.
I recommend Bound High for its simplicity, fun gameplay and good visuals. With the Random Game mode, you can just play an assortment of levels for 5 minutes at a time and put it down. The perfect thing for having a lot of people take a look at it.
Dooooom!
I decided to give the blue chunk of the VB a coat of clear enamel to prevent it from scraping, and… well, you can probably figure out what happened. The enamel bonded to the paint and contracted, but since the paint wasn’t bonded to the plastic, it wrinkled and warped, and began to winch right off of the red plastic. However, that wasn’t the case all around, so now I have a mostly-blue VB case with a disintegrating paint job and an inability to remove the rest due to the enamel coating. Score!
So I took the case off of my defunct Virtual Boy (I have three units total), and reassembled the controller with its original red buttons. I’m back to two red units, and the blue paint experiment is going on the back burner for now.
If anyone else tries this, you may think of grabbing some plastic spray paint primer to prevent this from happening.
I had some issues with mirroring as well, one display would show a double image somehow. *That* wound up being a problem with a damaged connector on the main board side. I carefully cleaned *between* all the copper contacts, pressed the contacts themselves flat, then plugged it back in.
A note on the buttons… Apparently Rust-Oleum didn’t have a dictionary with them when they put the word “bonds” on the can, because the paint in fact does *not* “bond” to plastic. It’ll stick, and the paint will stay, but it can be scraped off clean without any trace that it was ever there.
After testing the blue buttons on the controller, the places where they scrape up and down on the side of the hole was removing paint. I’m going to try applying some special primer they make for plastic, re-paint them, then possibly add some clear coat enamel on top. That should keep them blue forever.
Be careful about your use of terminology here:
* A lens is used to refract light, usually for magnification. The Virtual Boy does have lenses in it, but they’re inside the display between the mirror and the LEDs. Those, unless I’m mistaken, are glass and should be nearly impossible to scratch.
* A filter is used to restrict light passing through an area, as is the case with the red plastic eye pieces you look into. Those are decidedly plastic, and are on the exterior of the device, so they can be easily scratched.
I’m guessing you’re referring to the red filters, in which case I’m no expert on how to repair scratches. What I did personally was purchase a couple of defunct VB units on eBay, for real cheap because they didn’t work correctly. I was able to fix the displays in one of them, and used the other’s red filters as spare parts.
As I become more familiar with the capabilities of this old hand-me-down camera, I find better ways to take better, crisper shots with more accurate colors.
The images I took of the blue Virtual Boy paint job in the first post do not fully represent the vibrancy of the blue I used. The image attached to this post is a pretty darn good shot.
Attachments:
I got my second controller in today to go with the blue system. More work to do!
Once again, numbered images are attached to this post.
1. The VB controller is held together with 10 Philips-head screws. Fortunately, these aren’t the ridiculous security screws the systems and cartridges are held together with. The screws are marked in the picture with blue circles.
2. Once the back cover is off, this is what you’ll see. And the mechanism that prevents the cord from being pulled out? A knot in the cable. Genius! There are six more, smaller, Philips-head screws that need to be removed before the buttons can be accessed.
3. Beneath the control board are two silicone button pads, which can be pulled right out of the controller. They are not interchangeable, though, since each of them is a different shape. Once uncovered, the buttons and D-Pads pop right out.
4. I used the same spray paint on the red A and B buttons as I did on the red half of the Virtual Boy’s case. This photo was taken immediately after applying the paint, so you can see that it’s still quite goopy looking. It’s very important that you don’t touch or otherwise disturb the paint in this phase before it sets up enough to transport.
5. After drying for a few hours, the buttons look WAY better. They’re still not ready for prime time, but they’re dry to the touch and can be handled without smudging the surface. Ideally, you should wait a full 48 hours before trying to do anything with a painted object.
6. Once reassembled, this is how the controller looks. The red buttons have been turned into blue buttons to match the parent system. Finally, a matching set!
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GreDe85 wrote:
So, maybe it is ok to ask, if the FlashBoy Plus is still available? I’d like to know who still sells them?
MineStorm is the guy you want. Send him a PM and you can work out order/payment details. For a typical FlashBoy Plus the cost is $100 USD, which includes the USB cable and shipping.
He can’t spend all his time making FlashBoys, but he’s very reliable and he’ll get it done for you sooner or later. Just let him know and the two of you can work out the details.
Greetings, GreDe85! As the world’s only Virtual Boy community, we are quite active and welcome you!
If you need help with anything, go ahead and ask. Also, you can break into your VB to see if you can fix the displays with simple tape. I’ve done that on both of my units and they continue to work as new.
HorvatM wrote:
But am I the only one who likes the VB as it is?
I’m thinkin’ an actual headset, personally. Anything you can do with a thing on a desk, you can also do with a thing on your head. And with modern technologies, it could be as light and small as a set of swimming goggles.
vb-fan wrote:
I see it now — a new release of the VB with backwards-compatibility (old games work!), and a new line of games! Wait — print not a linear array but a 3×4 grid, and no bulky console with mirrors but a lightweight pair of glasses and a belt-mounted box with a game-cart slot!
We could design one. A Planet Virtual Boy production. Even without the original components, we have better computing stuff nowadays, so we could make a miniature Virtual Boy that runs on some other, better hardware with emulator software.
I’ve contacted an industry journalist regarding the “Virtual Boy is painful” thing. Would you guys be interested in working with him on an article to set the record straight about proper use of the Virtual Boy?