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Understood
@guyperfectRegistered December 4, 2012Active 3 years, 4 months ago
375 Replies made

This thing is still a problem, and at the same time of night. It’s just not as severe; I was able to browse by reloading every time the error came up (which was with every link I clicked).

I’m pleased that the article goes into detail about users experiencing headaches when using Virtual Boy being mostly a matter of RTFM. Nothing says “I’m an opinionated, short-tempered dimwit” than getting a headache from Virtual Boy.

It’s just tape holding the cable in the correct shape. The thing was warped and causing graphical issues, so I put it in a cast, so to speak.

Well, that was my first attempt at ever using spray paint, so uh… light coats is the secret, I guess. Plus, that Rust-Oleum stuff rocks.

The stuff I used was fantastic. Very simple, and it didn’t require a primer because it bonds to plastic.

This is the exact product I used: http://www.homedepot.com/buy/rust-oleum-paint-plus-2x-spray-glos-spa-blue-265153.html#.URQMUTvJzyM

MegaSilverX1 wrote:

It’s just his opinion.

It’s not really the editor’s place to be commenting on an article. That’s what the Comments section is for. |-:

I suppose while I’m thinking about it, I use Mario Clash for display troubleshooting.

The very first scene is some clouds parting, which is a nearly total full screen of full-intensity red. When running the game, I set the brightness to 5 and load up level 4. After level 4 is a bonus stage, which also has a lot of bright pixels.

If a problem occurs with the displays, it’ll either be during those clouds at the beginning, or on the bonus level.

Editor’s Note: Personally, I disagree with this blog post, as my experience with the Virtual Boy (while good for a few chuckles) resulted in a massive headache after only 20 minutes of play. But even though I disagree, I still found this to be an enjoyable read…but I’ll say that the 3DS’ 3D effect is far superior. 😛

Who’s the jackass who did your editing? I think it’s been well-established by now that anyone who gets a headache from Virtual Boy doesn’t know how to use the IPD and Focus controls.

Just dropping a note here that the cable connection on the display’s PCB is not the only possible source of display issues.

I recently purchased two units with display defects, and to my surprise, one of them still had a strong bond on the rubber adhesive on both displays. The cause of the graphical problems on that unit was twofold: 1) the IPD setting had been in the fully expanded position for a long time, which caused the cables to pinch over the top of the PCBs, and 2) somehow or other the slot on the mainboard was no longer forming a clean contact with the cable.

Between all three units that I’ve worked with, I’ve found that most of the graphical anomalies in fact result from warping of the thin copper within the flexible cable, and NOT from a poor connection to the PCB. This manifests itself in a number of ways, including cross-talk and brightness issues.

What I’ve taken to doing seems to have done the trick for any displays that weren’t outright dead:

* Buy a roll of Super Mario print Duck Tape. This provides emotional support to the Virtual Boy.
* Place a thin strip around the top of the display unit, such that both the PCB and the bottom of the cable are in contact with the tape. This will help prevent the cable from coming un-done.
* Place a second strip along the top edge of the cable (the side with the stiff, white plastic square. This aids in retaining the copper’s shape, keeping it from getting kinked or warped.
* When inserting the cable into the slot on the mainboard, you might want to gently re-insert it three or four times to make sure any gunk or corrosion is scraped off. This will ensure a good connection between the slot and the cable.

This is not a through-and-through permanent solution, but then again, damaged or deformed cables may not be fully reparable without replacement. However, when I do notice some glitchy artifacts in a display, which rarely happens anymore, I’m able to “massage” the cable back into its original shape and re-press the tape to hold it that way.

hawk1010 wrote:
Does anyone have any covers for the JP only VB games as well as Bound High/Space Pinball?

I’ve got a friend who’s studying Japanese, and he’s quite stoked to get transcripts made from the box scans. With his help, I should be able to produce high-res insert print-outs for the Japan-exclusive games just like the ones posted earlier in this thread.

HorvatM wrote:
Easier my ass. The VSU’s many capabilities (interval, envelope, etc.) mean that probably everyone designed their own cryptic MIDI-like format.

That’s what I had in mind, was cracking the MIDI-like format. That’s the part that’s easy, ’cause you can just change things and see what happens. It’s no difficult task to figure out a data format when you can see the effects of changes you make.

jrronimo wrote:

I’d be very interested to see what the music “looks” like, programmatically. But maybe that’s impossible without the source code.

You silly person. Music is usually one of the easier things to hack. (-:

RunnerPack wrote:

Notice that it says “protocol” not “subroutine”.

By definition, a protocol is used by software for exchanging data. The means by which data is transmitted on a wire is called an encoding.

Though the encoding on the wire may be the same or similar (I’m not sure if both use low/high cycles) on NES and Virtual Boy, the protocol by which the software communicates with the controller is different.

RunnerPack wrote:

Obviously these are going to be different, since the VB doesn’t use a 6502-derivative.

I’d just like to point out that the behavior of the input hardware is independent from the CPU being used. (-:

Took a trip to the craft store and bought some sheets of foamy stuff. Cut those into the shape of the cartridges and affixed them to the interior of the cases with some strips of double-sided tape.

I’d say more, but that’s really all there is to it.

Attachments:

Thanks to Ben’s link, I was able to remove the excess plastic within the cases. Turns out an ordinary box knife can remove the DS standoff (be sure to put something between the back of the case and the clear plastic sleeve).

I also removed the horizontal support “beam” above the manual clip so Virtual Boy manuals would fit. It can be done with a knife, but it’s kinda tedious, so I used a Dremmel grinding wheel and followed it up with a buff wheel.

As before, numbered photos are attached to this post.

10. This is what the cases look like with their plastic removed.

11. I’ll get some better materials next time I’m in the vicinity of an arts and crafts store, but for now, I’m securing my cartridges with paper towels and tape.

I’ve decided to put a few of these together. I purchased a bundle of 5 red cases from the Nintendo site (since I only have 3 games plus a FlashBoy), and so far everything’s going great.

I downloaded the high-res insert images that Benjamin Stevens posted earlier in the thread. Those are awesome.

There is a number of files attached to this post. They’re numbered, so I’ll just refer to them by number:

1. This is what the case looks like when it arrives from Nintendo. It will be quite difficult to open the first two or three times, before the snaps loosen up a bit.

2. With the case open, you can see the guts. Take note of the DS card holder, which is in the way. This will be removed at a later time, and I’ll document the process in a later post.

3. Here’s an insert sheet all printed out and ready to go. I produced these with a color laser printer, which is among the best that you can get with civilian money. I first tried printing on photo paper, but after putting the insert into the case the high gloss of the clear plastic totally outshone the quality of the paper I used.

NOTE: The proper width to print out the insert images, so that they fit in the Nintendo-supplied DS cases, is 10 inches and 7/8, which is 10.875 inches. Doing this creates a nice snug fit inside the case jacket without wrinkling the paper. Since standard letter size is 11 inches the long way, you’ll need to use legal size paper, which is 14 inches long.

4. I used a paper cutter to get straight edges on the inserts. You can also use a pair of scissors, a precision knife, or whatever else you have that cuts paper. Just make it look nice. I also removed a tiny amount of the printed image to prevent any unsightly white from winding up on the finished product.

5. When adding the insert to the case, make sure it’s perfectly positioned, because once you close the case, the bends that will be formed in the paper will prevent you from making good adjustments.

6. & 7. After it’s all said and done, you’ve got one slick case that out-shines the original boxes. (-:

8. KR155E was kind enough to provide high-res files for the artwork of the FlashBoy Plus box. So I made an insert image and printed that out too. The insert image is attached below, and follows the same dimensions and arrangement as the files Benjamin Stevens provided.

9. Once it’s all said and done, I have quite a collection of cases for my Virtual Boy cartridges! The next step will be to modify them to accept the actual carts.

Benjamin Stevens wrote:
That’s what the donor cart, which you send him along with the payment for the FlashBoy Plus, is for.

He told me he had a surplus of connectors. That’s why he offered to print a case.

Three US units here:

VN10420496[0]
VN10022665[2]
VN10328074[3]

jrronimo wrote:
How much do they cost to print? It’d be one step closer to no longer requiring donor cartridges, which is just plain fantastic news. 🙂

MineStorm didn’t ask for any money to print a case. So the same price as a FlashBoy with a donor cart.

Anyhoo, pictures!

Lester Knight wrote:
i’ve wanted to get my ribbons soldered, for awhile now. this would be very nice but $45 (with shipping) just seems really high to me.

I took a Dremmel cutter wheel after a flat-head screwdriver. Cost me like $15, and that includes the price of the screwdriver.

I found some Philips-head screws of the same length, thread density and shaft size, and stuck those in to put it back together.