What poll?
akumie wrote:
That will make the game end up NOT getting finished, unless it was for commercial purposes. Managing a team and a project properly is still more difficult than going off and making a game on your own.
Just start a game then when you did maybe at most 20% of the game you ask someone else to make another 5% of the game and he then asks someone else and so on
Just doesnt seem so hard in my eyes but then what do I know^^
I don’t know anything about making games but I have done online group projects where they get handed around and I can tell you they can be pretty hard to coordinate. I used to be really big into the X-plane flight simulator and made tons of aircraft for it and did a number of joint projects. They weren’t easy to do, I always knew exactly what I wanted out of it but it was hard to convey it to the person working with me. Then again I did have one that came out way better then expected due explicitly to the added help, in fact someone stuck my plane model on the wiki page for said plane which I’ve always thought was pretty cool. 😀 Yup thats my baby. Wish they had chosen a better angle, it looks way simpler then it is from that one.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aurora_%28aircraft%29
Yeah I’m glad its such a relatively common game. I see loose copies of it fairly often at a few local stores.
gunpeiyokoifan wrote:
HonkeyKong wrote:
They still released games in gray carts even for the GBC, my copy of Link’s Awakening DX oddly enough came in a gray cartridge instead of the usual black. I’ve never seen another like it, then again I haven’t really looked for another gray copy. 😛that looks like it might be a bootleg fake Gameboy game… sorry to say! 🙁
So I decided to open up my copy and compare it to another GBC game and wow! You were totally right. First problem I noticed, the cartidge doesn’t have that slight rattle all GB games have. Second, the screw whole wasn’t the same shape and it was difficult to get my security bit inside the whole. Third, the cartidge didn’t slide open like the two I compared it to and had to be popped open. Once I got it open it was very clear this was made by hand and quite poorly at that. Its a mess inside compared to the mechanical precision on the soldering of the other carts. Not to mention it looks completely different. Makes me a bit sad I traded my original genuine copy of the regular Links Awakening for a Lynx game. :/ Oh well nothing I can do about it now, and on the plus side I now know several ways to spot fake GBC carts. The contacts are a different color, the screw hole isn’t the same, and there is a little box with a number in it on the inside of the cart opening opposite of the contacts that isn’t on the bootleg.
Attachments:
TheForce81 wrote:
I wouldn’t mind participating as a judge and therefor of course withdraw from being able to win anything. I have enough VB stuff now 🙂Honkey, I sent you a mail earlier today. If they haven’t arrived by tuesday next week I will go to the post office and let them pay for it. Fortunately I have a spare set of soldered screens laying here, so I will send them in when (if it is needed of course) I get compensated by the post office.
Oh wow!!! Thank you so much!!! 😀 😀 😀 But here is to hoping they end up arriving safe and sound soon.
Here is what I was planning on submitting for my entry for the contribution portion before the rule change. Its a Red Alarm / VB inspired skin for the Lamborghini Reventón in Forza 3. I know its not much of a contribution. I love the wire frame look in Red Alarm and the Reventón’s super angular design made me wonder what it would look like rendered on a VB. So I set to work and many hours and 483 decals later I have this. 😎 I’m not sure or not if I’m going to keep the big Nintendo logo or not. To me it kind of looks a little out of place with the rest of the car, so I may either shrink it down and stick it someone where not as noticeable or delete it all together.
I was thinking I would make it like an exclusive thing for members on this site. If you have Forza 3, want this skin and have a Reventón in the game just let me know and I’ll stick the serial number of your VB on the nose and on the back and put it up on my storefront for you to download for free. I could also put user names on the cars but I think just having the serial number would look cooler. The pictures don’t do it justice as they for whatever reason are really washed out and blurry. The real thing is much darker black, and brighter red with very sharp clear lines. That or possibly its time for me to adjust my monitors color settings. 😛
Attachments:
VirtualJockey wrote:
Gain the “20+ ratings” batch by rating at least 20 commercial or homebrew games or demos.EDIT: Rules updated (1st requirement changed)
Looks like I’m out of the running before I even had my entry completed. 🙁 I only have 4 games and couldn’t even properly rate them atm anyway since I’m still waiting on my virtual boy displays to be delivered after being repaired by TheForce81. I’m actually starting to get kind of nervous that they may have been lost while being shipped as they are taking a really long time to arrive. 🙁 Anyway, I’ll continue with what I was going to submit even though I no longer have a chance as my little project is more then half way done and I think its pretty cool IMO.
Hahaha thats quite a lot of info. 😛 I could see it having been a factory mistake. I’ve gotten stranger mistakes before. I had a CD by the band Isis titled SGNL>05 that had the disk artwork from a bonus disk that was included in an album by another band on the same label called Neurosis, but it had all the correct music on it. I later decided I wanted the correct disk since they are one of my favorite bands and ordered a new one, it had the same thing amazingly. I contacted the label and they said they had never seen any other examples of this happening to any of their CDs nor have they had another person contact them about it, they then sent me a CD with the correct artwork. Anyway, even if my game does turn out to be a pirate cart it does work perfectly, it saves every time and I’ve gotten through the entire game without encountering a single bug so I’m happy, though if I do discover it is indeed a pirate copy I’m going to plan on tracking down a real one since its one of my favorite games.
It works perfectly, so as long as it keeps working I’m pretty much happy seeing as I only paid $10 for it. Aside from the color is there anything that makes you think that? I can’t imagine why someone would counterfeit links awakening, its not even remotely a rare game. If I were to open it up would there be any sort of indicator you think showing it to be non original?
They still released games in gray carts even for the GBC, my copy of Link’s Awakening DX oddly enough came in a gray cartridge instead of the usual black. I’ve never seen another like it, then again I haven’t really looked for another gray copy. 😛
Attachments:
Awesome! I’ve already got an idea for my contribution and will be starting work on it soon.
Saw this today while browsing ebay and thought I’d share it. Its a brand new virtual boy complete with factory warranty card still attached to the box.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-NEW-Nintendo-Virtual-Boy-VB-system-WARRANTY-CARD-/120679964473?pt=Video_Games&hash=item1c19161f39
HollowedEmpire wrote:
@ HonkeyKong
Wow, $30? What a steal! Is it in good shape?
/quote]I’m not terribly sure to be honest, it looks great to me but its only the 2nd VB I’ve seen in my entire life so I have nothing to compare it to. Its got a small nick on the left lens(not noticeable during play) and some scratches here and there but nothing disfiguring. As far as I can tell its in fantastic shape. I’m more then happy with it. 🙂
I’ve had mine since June of 2009. I came across it at a thrift store near my house for $30 with 2 games. Prior to that my only experience with one was playing a demo of Red Alarm on one in a Toys R’ Us back when they were new. I originally bought it for the sheer novelty but after really tying it out I loved it!
Is the bit where he mentions that 500 brand new ones were found in a shipping container true? I don’t remember hearing about that and I’d imagine that would have been on kotaku or a similar site. Or did he just screw up the numbers and was infact talking about the 100 that where found in a warehouse in Dubai a few years back?
I’m jealous you found a TurboGrafx-16! Do you self a favor and track down a copy of Bonk ASAP!
Just thought I’d update this as I’ve added two new consoles since I first posted. First, finally got a PS3, the newer slim version. The second I’m actually picking up tomorrow morning. An Atari Lynx II with 4 games, all boxed including the system itself. 😀 This will be my first Atari system and likely not my last, I’m probably going to gun for a Jaguar next, always wanted one growing up.
Atari
-Lynx II
Nintendo
-NES
-SNES
-Virtual Boy
-N64
-Game Cube
-Wii
-Game Boy
-Game Boy Pocket
-Game Boy Color
-Game Boy Advance
Sony
-PS
-PS1
-PS2
-PS3
Microsoft
-Xbox
-Xbox 360
Sega
-Saturn
Success! The bit arrived and it was able to remove every screw, I’m amazed it was able to remove the stripped one as when I got it out it looked totally mangled, I can see no areas on it I could imagine it gripping. The bit was almost perfect, had to shave off a little bit on the sides to get to the deep screws closest to the center of the system but that only took about a minute to fix. Now to just get those displays out. 😛
You I feel kind of dumb because that never occurred to me haha. I’ll definitely need to practice a bit before I try that if it comes to that. I’ve only done that once and that was on a brake rotor which is defiantly harder to screw up them it would be on a little screw in something made of plastic.
Just thought I’d add mine.
VN10044201[4]
Attachments:
My screw doesn’t seem to have to much in the way of slots left unfortunately. :/ Its really hard to get a good look at it and no for sure though, even with a light I can’t really make it out. I thought of an idea that might work if the bit doesn’t, I was thinking maybe after getting the rest of the screws out with the bit if it doesn’t work on the stripped one I’ll dab a little high strength glue in it, like jb weld or something and stick it on the screw, and when it dries try and remove it, I’m not sure if it will work but its the best solution I’ve been able to think up in a worst case scenario.