that’s pretty slick! I think I like it better than the Nintendo tabletop store display/demo to be honest.
With the infinity mirror effect, do you just apply some kind of mirror film behind the glass with the logo etched in? If so that makes more sense than what I imagined doing, which was placing a number of identical panels together to give the illusion of depth :p
Those seem really nice, and a perfect match! The square earpieces almost look like a big pixel to go with the video game theme 🙂
In case you wanted a cheap, unbranded earbud alternative I recommend these Sentry ear hook things. I get them here in the USA at Family Dollar for about $5 (this picture is of a slightly advanced type with a microphone control or something). They come with different-sized (and black) silicone covers. I’m enough of a snob with earbuds that I used to only buy this one particular Sony variety, but the sound on these is surprisingly awesome for the price. Very light and comfy, plus the silicone covers help isolate lots of outside noise 🙂
Attachments:
I’m not sure I follow O_o …it takes maybe 5 minutes to do each display this way, not exactly what I would call tedious but who knows. The fiberglass pencil works ok for cleaning the traces I guess, but I had a lot more trouble with broken or misaligned pieces when removing the plastic that way. If you only go part of the way up the plastic with the needle technique, enough of the cable should stay attached that it won’t fall out of alignment. The traces get buffed up much nicer when I use some adhesive remover and fine sandpaper instead.
I’m not sure I follow O_o …it takes maybe 5 minutes to do each display this way, not exactly what I would call tedious but who knows. The fiberglass pencil works ok for cleaning the traces I guess, but I had a lot more trouble with broken or misaligned pieces when removing the plastic that way. If you only go part of the way up the plastic with the needle technique, enough of the cable should stay attached that it won’t fall out of alignment. The traces get buffed up much nicer when I use some adhesive remover and fine sandpaper instead.
TheForce81 is one of the go-to members for this fix- if you haven’t already asked for his assistance, I live in the USA and offer to do it as well. PM me if you’re interested 🙂
Here are some pictures of how I peel up the ribbon cable plastic. With a thin sewing needle, you just work the tip of it under the plastic between a couple traces (only go under the plastic a tiny amount). Hold the needle at a low angle to the display PCB as you do it. Don’t try to pry up, just let the tip of it gently lift that portion of the plastic away from the traces.
As you work down the board in between each trace a few times, you’ll see the plastic start to give way. If you work slowly and don’t pry too aggressively, you should be able to expose enough of the copper without it peeling away from the PCB. You can still bend the ribbon cable copper down if they come off the traces, but it’s just a hassle to line them back up and solder without breaking them off.
Attachments:
Benjamin Stevens wrote:
vuefinder83 wrote:
What do you guys think about this promo item?…
I think that the tiny light had better do something incredibly amazing, so as to require 8 button cell batteries to operate it. I just can’t imagine why it would need so many.
Haha seriously. Maybe it projects a 3D hologram of Dragon Hopper gameplay footage. Or maybe they foresaw how long the system would be in stock still on clearance, I have a boxed system with a late 1997 date written on the registration sticker…
Is there a pin as well or just the little kickstand? I can’t imagine wearing this thick button with 8 batteries inside.
If nobody else speaks up, I wouldn’t be opposed to reflowing some solder and getting that wire back in place too.
RCAstudioII wrote:
How can he insult the controller? It had batteries on it before it was cool!
And nobody seems to realize that it’s the most comfortable controller ever. Plus its trigger buttons are placed in a much better position than every other system where they’re on top…
TheForce81 wrote:
They used this method on Game Boys as well and there the problems are not as prominent as with the VB, but it started to happen nowadays as well, though at the time they were all in real use, as good as no one had these problems.
So, why change something that doesn’t give a problem? That was probably what they were thinking.
The sockets normally only were needed to easily replace the displays, and one socket is enough for that, at least that is my guess what they were thinking.
That I did not know! I haven’t researched Game Boy display issues much, is this the reason my GB Color is missing a few rows at the top of the display? The top 1/32nd” or so seems like all dead pixels.
As far as VB’s go, I just solder every display I come across. Gradually we should be able to increase the ratio of fixed to at-risk systems out in the wild.
Yeah I think Nintendo (or Sanyo?) had the chance to prevent it when they designed the setup.
Has anyone ever addressed why exactly they did glue the ribbon cables down instead of putting a socket on both sides? Or just soldering it? Even if they couldn’t anticipate these display problems or the 20+ year lifespan of the system, it seems like a totally unnecessary corner to cut. Kind of like buying a new Ferrari only to find out the designer went with Velcro strips to hold the doors shut.
I wonder if subsequent ones will come down in price, assuming they keep showing up for sale. Seems like it can go either way- bidders realize it’s not a once-in-a-lifetime chance and don’t go so crazy next time, or think they need to bid higher before the supply runs out for good. Maybe I answered my own question, there’s no way to tell :-p
bigmak wrote:
The easiest method I know is to use a retrode with a converter for Genesis games to VB games.Now when I say easy..i couldn’t make the converter 🙂 But, it’s better then making your own dumper.
-Eric
They have more info at the Retrode site: http://www.retrode.org/2010/03/user-story-1-virtual-boy-adapter/
I think that links back to DogP’s page too. You can also use the Retrode to play VB games on your computer once you build this setup. Like the SNES or Genesis, you just plug the cart in to the system, open the ROM file on your computer using an emulator and play. I lucked out and found a Retrode at a flea market, so I plan on building this converter eventually. Unfortunately they seem to be very expensive now, $100-150 on ebay from what I remember. Somewhere on the Retrode site they implied that a new batch may be on the way though.
Seems like you can either build your own VB cart connector using a bunch of pins or just sacrifice one from a busted unit.
Hmm…I guess it does sound pretty easy when you put it that way. If this is really doable, I’d love to start a list of parts to buy, work on drafting up some circuit designs, and finding a self-professed engineering nerd somewhere to help with the firmware side of things 🙂
Would something simple like the NES be a good place to start? I also haven’t seen a ton of great wireless controllers for that system anyway, just those crummy Akklaim (Acclaim?) IR ones…maybe some fancy RF one that came out a few years ago too, but they’re prohibitively expensive.
Now when you say picking an existing protocol, what exactly “is” that? Hopefully that question gives you an idea of how much I know about this stuff haha. I want to understand it and hopefully make a great project out of it. Maybe the other projects out there just over-complicated the process for me.
I do this repair as well, probably best for members in the USA. I’ll send you a PM 🙂
A lot of that is still over my head haha. I should do more reading on the subject of Bluetooth setups because it sounds like kits for making your own controllers are fairly straightforward.
I wouldn’t be opposed to IR if it was far easier to set up for someone like me. Lots of forum people online seem to trash IR controllers from the 90s, usually referring to “line of sight” woes. Honestly, I’ve been buying a bunch of them lately and don’t see what the big deal is.
So far I have Doc’s brand wireless controllers for 3DO and Genesis, Naki and official Sega for Saturn, with some Vision brand ones on the way for SNES. The sets I have so far all work, and work very well. No lag, no missed button presses, good range, etc. People over-dramatize the line of sight factor like you literally have to point the IR beam directly at the receiver at all times. As long as there’s open space between my controller and receiver, I can point it any which way that suits me and it works perfectly. For the Doc’s sets, this even includes pointing them behind me or at the ceiling O_o
Anyway…the point is, some third party ones don’t have the best designs so it would still be nice to build custom wireless sets out of OEM controllers.
Oh and RunnerPack, are you sure IR wireless for Virtual Boy is a good idea? Look at all the complaining people already do with “What? It only has red LEDs??”…next thing you know, they’ll be saying “These guys only made infrared wireless?? Why couldn’t they just make it infra-full color?”
Oh no, doesn’t have to be RF…I guess I assumed that was the only other option haha. Bluetooth would be great too…but some of what you say is over my head. I’ve seen Bluetooth controller kits on Adafruit, they seem fairly straightforward- is this the kind of thing you’re referring to? It sounds like you just connect each button/signal to a pad on the transmitter and wire the receiver correspondingly.
In short, what would be the start-to-finish steps for making such a wireless controller for the…SNES? (Just the wireless circuits, I can figure out the physical modding of stuff :p)
For anyone still wondering, it sounds like my theory was right…this appears to be just a kiosk unit with a makeshift reset switch. Still, nice to have the first motherboard revision with an early serial # :-p
Yes, these all sound like good ideas. To simplify even further, couldn’t a rechargeable battery pack be installed into the VB unit itself? Along the inner side of the front panel seems like it has enough room for such a mod. The system may be a little front-heavy, but that would be easy to find a solution for. Then maybe you could plug in the system and still play while charging, all without that pesky second cable on the controller.
Or, what about a combination weighted base/stand and rechargeable battery? I saw a base like that for the GameCube for the first time the other day- kind of resembled the GameBoy player but was a travel battery. The heavy part keeping the system’s stand from toppling over could itself be a (large) rechargeable power pack. I’m picturing something like a desktop lamp might have.
The internal battery version would need a new plug for charging installed, or maybe the EXT port could be repurposed as a charger since it’s not of much use anyway.
Great looking site so far! I’ve mentioned before that I’m (clearly) a big HP Lovecraft fan, I’m glad the Virtual Boy was honored with a game loosely based on his works.
This may be a dumb question, but does your editor allow for adjusting how many hits you can take? I die pretty quickly whenever I play the game and would probably have more fun if it was easier :p
. With that editor utility, one could almost see a PlanetVB original sequel at some point in the future!
- This reply was modified 9 years, 3 months ago by HP Lovethrash.