adler_0 wrote:
Get some custom lenses made so instead of looking through red it will bring the shade down to a purple. I think its doable.

Dreammary wrote:
I think that could work to effectively change the tone purple. 🙂
blue lenses plus the red color LEDs would equal purple.

You both may be onto something. I might have to look into that

Plenty of pictures will follow 🙂 My biggest issue right now is sizing the new logo correctly (and hoping the post office delivers the VB to the right house this time).

I like the plasti-dip idea and have done it in the past with my 3DS. I liked it but I might try the paint this time around.

That would be sweet if it were possible. I contemplated making it all pink and white but the black and pink is easier/looks better. I don’t want it looking too much like a Barbie product lol.

Love your display (as well as the other ones here). Your laugh in the beginning of the video had my dog all sorts of confused. She wouldn’t stop tilting her head at the screen.

That sounds equally as fun! Might try that out later

I’m a tad late to this party but, congrats! To anyone doubting they will be so lucky, never say never! It’s crazy the deals you find at the least suspecting moments!

Because DogP is awesome, my Virtual Boy stand looks as good as new! I can’t thank you enough, man!

Attachments:

1. 

   photo-2-3.jpg
   

2. 

   photo-3-1.jpg
   

3. 

   photo-4.jpg
   

Changed my area of display to a more appropriate part of the house. Don’t mind the dog. She wouldn’t move. I will be getting these black risers this week and I will arrange the systems in a much nicer fashion. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PKH5TC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Attachments:

1. 

   photo-2-1.jpg
   

2. 

   photo-1-1.jpg
   

HP Lovethrash wrote:
That actually does sound fun, especially for a Wario game or maybe Panic Bomber…wouldn’t recommend Red Alarm though hah.

I was wondering one time if you could play a game (maybe not on VB) where both people can see the display- one holds the right side of the controller to jump and hit the ‘fire’ button and the other controls the D-pad.

There actually is a game like that for the NES. It’s Gyromite (when played without ROB). The concept is really fun but the game hasn’t aged well. I don’t see why it wouldn’t be possible on an emulator on the PC where it would be easy to do with a keyboard.

Haha aww man. It might be fun as a drinking game with your buddies if anything lol

Welcome! Great deal you got! If you’re looking for a quick and effective way to clean the battery corrosion, CLR cleaning product will take care of it in less than a minute. I used it on my DMG restoration and all I did was take the springs/contacts out and dipped them in a tiny little bit of the liquid or you could apply it to a q-tip and clean other areas that are hard to reach.

DogP wrote:
I had a few spare minutes tonight, so I printed HT’s models. As usual, the models are awesome, and the parts seem to work great.

Here’s a pic of the two printed parts, next to the original part:

Then I popped them into a spare stand that I had (the one with the printed medallion).

The original style:

The simplified style:

Both seem to work perfectly, and as far as I can tell, will be plenty strong to hold the VB (though of course I’d be extra careful with it until you feel comfortable with it).

The simplified style feels slightly stiffer near the “PUSH” section (there’s more plastic), but if I was to guess, I’d say the first point of failure would be either the side nubs breaking off, or the top snapping off from the layers of plastic separating.

Anyway, retronintendonerd – let me know which one you want (original or simplified style), and send me a PM w/ your address and I’ll toss it in the mail this weekend. If anyone else needs one, let me know… you’re welcome to the other one.

Oh, and I think the best way to replace this part is to remove the metal spring piece from the bottom (use something pointy to pop the bottom out), and then slide the front clip downward. If you try just prying it out, you might break the main plastic piece. To reinstall, slide the plastic piece in place, and then slide the metal spring up from the bottom until it snaps into place.

DogP

You are the best! I’ll send you a PM now.

3DBoyColor wrote:

morintari wrote:
vb-fan wrote

Very cool — I wonder how many other fans of “Virtual Boy” are girls! 🙂

I can think of a few we have
gunpaiyokifan
mednefen
kit23

But don’t worry kit23 is taken she’s my wife;)

Perhaps someone should do up a Virtual Boy in pink automotive/plastic paint and call it Virtual Girl. 😛

Hell, if I had the spare cash, I probably would. Only thing is I hate pink lol

Here’s my VB and the stand as I got it.

Virtual Boy

Virtual Boy

DogP wrote:
Several of us have had good luck with Shapeways as well… and they’re very reasonably priced.

I’ll print this model when I get home though… if it works out, I’ll mail it to you (luckily all my stands are intact, so I don’t need one).

DogP

I was looking at Shapeways as well. You’re so kind 🙂

I found a site that will print them at $18.55 each (detailed version) and $18.47 (without detail). Here’s the link if anyone else is interested in getting a replacement: https://www.partsnap.com

I wouldn’t worry about me selling them. I’m farrrr too lazy to even bother. However, I may use your 3D rendering of it to have one printed for myself. Thanks for putting in the time and effort on it.

vb-fan wrote:

retronintendonerd wrote:

Thanks for the advice and tips. Much appreciated. Are there really places that 3D print these parts? If you happen to know a link, could you share? Hell if I don’t have to go through the work of making my own, I definitely won’t lol. I haven’t decided which material I am using for the replacement piece yet since I haven’t yet received the stand. I want to get an actual feel for the plastic/material before I start this.

Minestorm (the genius making the “Flashboy” carts!) posted a computer model for printed clips, post 16:
http://www.planetvb.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=20783#forumpost20783

Someone made a clip:
http://www.planetvb.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=24674#forumpost24674

There are places you can go to have a part printed, often ABS (a denser and stronger variant of styrene). The original is likely made of it. I bet if a fab shop has minimums, you could have several parts printed and people here would buy some. I could use a couple myself!

🙂

I wanna kiss you right now! (don’t worry, I’m a woman lol) Screw making my own if I can get these printed now.

vb-fan wrote:

vb-fan wrote:
You might consider making some cuts into the remaining clip piece (“stump”), forming fingers. Then put the broken clip in the mold — the resin will form matching fingers, and bond to the plastic clip (no glue needed). A glue-bond on the old break line won’t be as strong as the original plastic (and THAT broke!). If the connection between the new material and the old is made with “fingers”, it would be much stronger…

I would even cut an inch off of the “stump”. If you just cut “fingers”, every other finger will join on the stress line (where the old fracture occurred). Better to have the fingers happen on the side of the clip, and the right-angle (fracture-line) made with solid resin. Carve out the mold a little, and the resin will form a “fillet” rather than a sharp angle at the fracture-line, much stronger…

Oh I completely agree.

vb-fan wrote:

retronintendonerd wrote:

The crack is the part of the clip. Sorry for not being clear on that. I have clay that I will use to form a mold of the clip on top of the stand since both sides are symmetrical and the other half is intact. Then I will pour my liquid plastic/resin into the mold after it has taken its form. I will then use some strong glue and attach and sand down uneven parts. It’s not a quick job but it should work regardless

If the clip is cracked, or even broken, solvent would be a good fix. I have in my hand a can of “Weld-On”, by IPS corporation in Gardena Ca (www.ipscorp.com). It’s thinner than water, and aggressively dissolves the plastic. You put just a drop or two on a crack (or hold a completely broken piece together), and the plastic bonds in seconds. Full strength in a few hours. That should be fine for the clip, if you lay the clip piece down on something flat and push the “solvent-welded pieces” together & allow to dry, should be plenty strong enough.

Solvent likes to run under one’s fingers if you’re not careful, leaving a very nice detailed finger-print in the plastic!

RE “making a mold” and using resin (polyester resin? With black pigment?) — resin is pretty strong. I use paraffin for molds; but the resin has to be popped out when it’s gelled, LONG before it hardens. Pull the resin as soon as it gels (and lay on waxed paper to harden), it pops out of the wax easily. Wait for it to fully harden, and the only way it separates from the wax is by melting the wax!

I don’t have experience with clay molds. Is it the “sculpy” kind that you catalyze in the oven (turning it into something like rubber)? You might consider making some cuts into the remaining clip piece (“stump”), forming fingers. Then put the broken clip in the mold — the resin will form matching fingers, and bond to the plastic clip (no glue needed). A glue-bond on the old break line won’t be as strong as the original plastic (and THAT broke!). If the connection between the new material and the old is made with “fingers”, it would be much stronger…

If ya’ don’t have the broken-off piece it’s kinda moot, the only approach is to make a new piece.

There’s a post on PVB about having a new clip “3D-printed”; that would be ideal, and fillets can be added so it won’t break again.

Thanks for the advice and tips. Much appreciated. Are there really places that 3D print these parts? If you happen to know a link, could you share? Hell if I don’t have to go through the work of making my own, I definitely won’t lol. I haven’t decided which material I am using for the replacement piece yet since I haven’t yet received the stand. I want to get an actual feel for the plastic/material before I start this.