Cool, thanks! BTW, what infill % did you use? Did you add any extra shells to allow for threading the hole? Did you thread the hole, or just force the tripod screw into it?
Actually, I recently got an upgraded printer, and I’ve been wanting to try ABS (I finally have a heated bed!). If you just put it on Thingiverse and post the link, I’ll give it a whirl. I even have a 1/4-20 tap handy to clean out the hole. Be sure to include the recommended print settings (infill, support, etc.).
Cool idea, but it looks like it’s a beast to put on, and impossible to get off. If I made one, I’d probably make it in two halves screwed together with captive nuts or something.
The protocol is pretty simple (basically a Genesis 3-button with turbo and a different connector). You only need five signals, so a basic ATtiny85 doing bit-banged USB could do it (something like the Digispark). Sourcing the DIN jack to save the cable is going to inflate the BoM cost by a large margin, though. You should just detach the original cable and stick the USB stuff inside the pad (if there’s room).
I just use an SNES or Dualshock pad for everything 😛
Now, who’s going to take the sensors from two GB cameras and build a stereoscopic VB camera, with up-scaling, a dither pattern selector, some simple editing tools, and a built-in USB port for dumping photos? 😎
While I would never say it was impossible, the RAM constraints on the VB are going to make this very challenging. If I were going to attempt it, I would probably give up “pixel-perfect” and make the terrain half-resolution. You could store 16 such half-res “pixels” in each char. You still wouldn’t be able to store all 65,536 combinations, but you could narrow it down to the most likely ones, and make a filter to convert the rest. The V810’s bitstring opcodes should help with the collision-detection part.
Didn’t someone already make a GB link to parallel port cable and software to simulate the GB printer? That seems like a much cheaper and easier way to do this (assuming you still have a PC with a parallel port kicking around). You could probably port the software to the Arduino, actually.
Well, if you know how to solder, you’re pretty much half-way there. You should search for “diy arcade controls”, look at a lot of forums and “how-to” guides, gather the parts you’ll need, give it a try, then come back to this thread to either A) ask specific questions when you get stuck, or B) show us your amazing finished product! 🙂 :thumpup:
No offense, but, if you can’t figure it out from the photo you posted and my description above, maybe this isn’t the right project for you right now.
What is your electronics background and skill set? Can you solder? Do you know what the terms “circuit”, “ground”, and “normally-open” mean? To what tools and parts do you have access?
If you’re trying to attach different buttons to the controller, you just have to look at it. Each button consists of two contacts – one grounded and the other connected to an input of the IC. It’s easy to find out which is which with a multimeter.
You could also use a shift-register or microcontroller to simply simulate the controller, then you wouldn’t have to modify one. You’ll have to be more precise about exactly what you want to do.
I wanted one as soon as I played a demo unit, but it was too expensive, so I had to wait to get my first one at T’R’U when they were clearing out at (I think) $25. The games were pretty cheap, too; $2.50-$5, IIRC, but I could only afford a couple. I think I got Mario Clash, Wario and Waterworld (because it was cheap, and there was no playable demo :-P).
I got my 2nd about a decade later at a thrift store for $5, with a Performance AC adapter and a copy of Vertical Force and a broken stand and no visor 😛 but still, not bad.
My 3rd and 4th were main unit only, and I got them in trade for some LED repairs. One of them was disassembled for donor parts (of which I still have a few).
chicgamer wrote:
Sorry to bump an old thread, but does anyone know if these screws will work for the plastic piece on the bottom that covers the cart (where the serial number is)?
Yes; all of the external screws on the VB are the same size.
Also, does anyone know if the security screws that hold this piece on are the same as what was used for the SNES? If so, I have a spare SNES from which I could salvage screws for my VB.
I know they have the same head, and I suspect they are the same diameter, but I’m unsure of the length. If you have the right screwdriver, just take one from each unit and compare them. Also, it’s been a while, but I think the SNES screws (at least on the US model) were nickel-plated (i.e. “silver”), whereas the VB screws are black.
I’m pretty sure Mednafen is the only one still being updated (and even then, not all that often, since Mednafen is such a big project). TMK, it’s also the most compatible.
VBJin is just a repackage of the Mednafen VB core, anyway, and it probably takes a while for the developer(s) to update to the latest one (if it’s still being updated at all; I don’t use VBJin).
Also, I’m pretty sure every VB emulator has an anaglyph mode.
RunnerPack wrote:
With all due respect to Nes Freak, if you are getting sound, there’s nothing wrong with your cartridge port. Unlike the NES/Famicom, the VB’s cartridge is kind of an “all-or-nothing” deal; either it works perfectly or not at all. Also, even if it does get dirty/tarnished enough to stop booting, simply inserting and removing a game a few times should clean it just fine with no chemicals needed.
not the situation Ive experienced. so far with my experiences with VB ive had games stop working wile i was playing after a quick cleaning with contact cleaner it was fine. but there was this one time i thought the sound chip was faulty cause i wasnt getting much sound out of one side with alot of static. after i cleaned the slot it was working perfectly.
Actually, it sounds like your experiences back up what I said. If even one cartridge pin (with the exception of a handful of commonly unused signals) loses contact for even a moment, the game stops working completely. A dirty cart or slot can cause noise or silence because the analog audio signals from the VB pass through the cart on the way to the amplifier. However, if you do get clean audio, it means the cart and slot are working fine.
Also, I didn’t say contact cleaner wouldn’t work, just that it’s not really necessary. We don’t know if removing and reinserting would have worked for you, since you exercised the “nuclear option” 😉
With all due respect to Nes Freak, if you are getting sound, there’s nothing wrong with your cartridge port. Unlike the NES/Famicom, the VB’s cartridge is kind of an “all-or-nothing” deal; either it works perfectly or not at all. Also, even if it does get dirty/tarnished enough to stop booting, simply inserting and removing a game a few times should clean it just fine with no chemicals needed.
UHATEIT wrote:
I know nothing about the Playstation VR, but is it like the VB but in color?
Sometimes it’s like a color VB (i.e. a screen floating in black space), but usually only during loading screens, menus, etc. Games generally fill your entire field of view, and your head is tracked so that when you move, your view changes as if you were really there.
It also has positional – rather than simply stereo – sound, so you can hear where things are, even if you can’t see them.
Your controller(s) is/are (usually) also tracked in 3D space, just like your head. This allows you to interact with things in the VR as if they were really there in relation to you and your hands.
There’s really nothing between the battery/adapter and the pins on the connector except the power switch. It’s unlikely that the switch is worn out, but as I mentioned before, there could be corrosion on anything, including inside the switch or between your probe, the paper clip, and the connector. Plugging/unplugging connectors, and switching switches back and forth, can sometimes scratch off enough to make a better connection. I can’t really advise beyond that without physical access to the parts… sorry.
Do you want that specific emulator, or just the ability to play VB games on a PSP? If the latter, here’s a port of mednafen (including VB emulation) for the PSP. I’m not sure what it takes to build it, or if there’s a precompiled binary somewhere, but it can’t be that hard to get it going.
