I would start with checking the voltage regulator DC-DC (the black epoxy board sticking out). See if you have a steady 5v.
Next, visually inspect for any liquid damage, then start diode checking VRAM…

Does anyone have a link to a video or a photograph for those of us without the flash cart? 🙂

>>Like how much experience as a game dev does someone have to have to understand the hardware and write that in 6 weeks?>>

A: juuuuust enough to be worshiped ^_^

[segasonicfan]

Just shipped out a bunch of repaired units! 🙂

• This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by segasonicfan.

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Got some new high-quality install videos uploaded and bump to v3.3 🙂

Thanks for pointing out the broken link, I just fixed it.

I’m sure to do some sleuthing under the microscope and opening up data sheets, reverse engineer some of the board to try to find the pinout. Was just trying to save myself some headache, in case anyone could upload a photo.

a broken motherboard would also be nice to test with, if anyone has one.

PMs sent, thanks 🙂

[segasonicfan]

Made a new video explaining the reasons behind why I designed the Virtual Ribbon 🙂

• This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by segasonicfan.

[segasonicfan]

Update: Pre-order PCBs arrived from the fabrication !

I went ahead and did a v3.2 bump for a couple improvements – I think it will be worth the wait (I’m always perfecting my designs, even after official releases 🙂

Thank you all for your patience. I know it’s been a long week, and there’s a lot going on in the world slowing things down. But I haven’t forgotten about anyone and I’ll do another batch of orders in a couple months after I finish all these installs and shipments. Full refunds are available at any time prior to shipment as well.

In the meantime, contact me through my website if you’d like to be on the waiting list 🙂

• This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by segasonicfan.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by segasonicfan.
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[segasonicfan]

Edit: fixed it. doh, all it needed was alcohol Q tip brushed across optical sensors (I tried compressed air first but that didn’t do the trick).

• This reply was modified 4 years, 2 months ago by segasonicfan.

I created a solution for this, and will ship worldwide. See the Virtual Ribbon:

https://www.planetvb.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7561&forum=1

http://segasonicfan.wixsite.com/retro

Steve wrote:
Just stumbled across this thread. If you do make any more of these, I would be interested in a pair to replace a botched set of ribbon cables I recently removed from the lenses.

as far as I know this isnt being developed anymore due to the high cost of flex PCBs. I created a more durable (but slightly more expensive) alternative, the Virtual Ribbon, which is here: https://www.planetvb.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7561&forum=1

I strongly recommend against messing the LED boards unless you have many years soldering experience. These repairs should be done under a microscope with the use of Kapton tape.
Its a real bummer that theres wires under there and it’s so incredibly suseptible to damage :/

VB at 80 sounds good though, haha by then youll have lots of medication for the headaches too 😀

Id love some info on this too. I have an intermittent unit that is likely the crummy green wire harness but Im not 100% sure…gotta look into it more when I get free time.

Theres a bunch out there, you just need a standard step down that will handle the current

I recommend against messing with the servo board unless necessary. The wire harness is very problematic and its best to leave be until needed.

The VB caps are standard electrolytics, non-SMD, and may last decades longer. I have a CRT from 1984 that hasnt needed a recap…

The “retro recap craze” is a bit much imo, not everything needs it.

RedEyeVue wrote:
ah. I like to hear that! So how does the pcb get soldered to the led board?

See here:

Note, v3.0 install is slightly different (must put into the black frame first and solder)

RedEyeVue wrote:
Awesome. About time we had a ribbon replacement solution again! What made you decide to do the 2 boards at 90 degrees design versus your original design where you just had one board with a socket on it?

Thanks for the kind words 🙂 The short answer is durability – I could’ve made a single PCB solution, but it would likely develop problems over time, especially since the cable would be rubbing against the bottom of the unit.
I wanted to create something that would be absolutely permanent and foolproof, and I tend to be a perfectionist with my designs. V1.0 actually worked great, but I did three more improved revisions before releasing it to the public 🙂

RunnerPack wrote:
Well, no-one seems to be interested in this anymore, but here is a practically complete version of the font. I’ll fix reported bugs if possible, and if there are any type designers/experts out there, I’ll definitely listen to any tips/tricks/hints/commentary/suggestions.

I technically own the copyright, but I really don’t care what’s done with it (although an anti-VB hate site would be in seriously poor taste :-P). …a small gratuity would be a nice gesture, if you can spare it. 😉

Very awesome, very cool! I was going to use this for a PCB design soon 🙂 I could send you $1 for each PCB sold if that works?

I had a problem very similar to what’s described here and I took a video of it that I will upload later.

In my case, the issue was the green cables connected to the motor control daughter board.

The connector on that daughterboard is one of the abysmal 90s interconnects that I loathe, it’s a type that’s known to have intermittent issues and problems. Try wiggling that cable and see what happens. It fixed the issu for me.