[segasonicfan]

• This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by segasonicfan.
• This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by segasonicfan.

[segasonicfan]

Hi, I had this exact issue before.

First, this is normal operation if the mirrors are not working properly. The virtual boy has a detect signal to check if the oscillation for the mirror induction motor is operating properly. If it isn’t, the system will not boot an image. I imagine this was done to prevent headaches and health issues.

First thing you want to do is swap the left and right side on the motor controller board. That way you can see if the problem is the mirror / motor assembly on one side, or the motor controller itself that is the issue.

If it’s the motor controller, obviously you can replace that. Or you can double check the green wiring which has a pretty janky connector that can give issues.

If the issue moves when you swap connectors, then you know it’s your mirror assembly. Move on to the next step:

There is a photo interrupter/optical coupler that a plastic bit in the mirror slides through many times a second to produce a successful signal. Make sure that that piece is thoroughly cleaned with alcohol and doesn’t have any debris in it, as that can cause this issue since it blocks the optics from communicate with each other. You can also try replacing it, I’ve attached an image to show you what they look like.

Failing that, I would try slightly bending the green cable from the motor controller board to see if that has any effect. Beyond that, you might have to replace the mirror motor assembly as I don’t know the way those can be repaired since they are highly calibrated. You can order yourself a Virtual Tap and turn it into a home console as well…

• This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by segasonicfan.
• This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by segasonicfan.

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This is pretty unusual, but normal common sense suggests trying a different controller if you have one.

Aside from that, the next step is to check the power. Make sure it’s getting 5 V.

Next step after that is a little harder, you’ll have to check the data signals and see the clock pulses are working correctly. If you don’t have an oscilloscope, that will be kind of difficult though.

If you get to step three, I would suggest sending it in for a repair.

– SSF

cool, thanks for the info! 🙂

Unfortunately, none of the homebrew fixes really last. I tried them myself, and would’ve been happy to go that route instead of designing the Virtual Ribbon. Sadly, there was no other option for a permanent repair.

I do have some older prototype boards set aside for very low income folks. I know what it’s like to have a super tight budget and I can help ya out if you need.

Whatever you do, DONT put your virtual boy in an oven or under a blow dryer/hot air though.

video can be lofi…not like any camera would be a match for the red blur, anyway!

I would start with checking the voltage regulator DC-DC (the black epoxy board sticking out). See if you have a steady 5v.
Next, visually inspect for any liquid damage, then start diode checking VRAM…

Does anyone have a link to a video or a photograph for those of us without the flash cart? 🙂

>>Like how much experience as a game dev does someone have to have to understand the hardware and write that in 6 weeks?>>

A: juuuuust enough to be worshiped ^_^

[segasonicfan]

Just shipped out a bunch of repaired units! 🙂

• This reply was modified 4 years ago by segasonicfan.

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Got some new high-quality install videos uploaded and bump to v3.3 🙂

Thanks for pointing out the broken link, I just fixed it.

I’m sure to do some sleuthing under the microscope and opening up data sheets, reverse engineer some of the board to try to find the pinout. Was just trying to save myself some headache, in case anyone could upload a photo.

a broken motherboard would also be nice to test with, if anyone has one.

PMs sent, thanks 🙂

[segasonicfan]

Made a new video explaining the reasons behind why I designed the Virtual Ribbon 🙂

• This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by segasonicfan.

[segasonicfan]

Update: Pre-order PCBs arrived from the fabrication !

I went ahead and did a v3.2 bump for a couple improvements – I think it will be worth the wait (I’m always perfecting my designs, even after official releases 🙂

Thank you all for your patience. I know it’s been a long week, and there’s a lot going on in the world slowing things down. But I haven’t forgotten about anyone and I’ll do another batch of orders in a couple months after I finish all these installs and shipments. Full refunds are available at any time prior to shipment as well.

In the meantime, contact me through my website if you’d like to be on the waiting list 🙂

• This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by segasonicfan.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by segasonicfan.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by segasonicfan.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by segasonicfan.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by segasonicfan.

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[segasonicfan]

Edit: fixed it. doh, all it needed was alcohol Q tip brushed across optical sensors (I tried compressed air first but that didn’t do the trick).

• This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by segasonicfan.

I created a solution for this, and will ship worldwide. See the Virtual Ribbon:

https://www.planetvb.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7561&forum=1

http://segasonicfan.wixsite.com/retro

Steve wrote:
Just stumbled across this thread. If you do make any more of these, I would be interested in a pair to replace a botched set of ribbon cables I recently removed from the lenses.

as far as I know this isnt being developed anymore due to the high cost of flex PCBs. I created a more durable (but slightly more expensive) alternative, the Virtual Ribbon, which is here: https://www.planetvb.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7561&forum=1

I strongly recommend against messing the LED boards unless you have many years soldering experience. These repairs should be done under a microscope with the use of Kapton tape.
Its a real bummer that theres wires under there and it’s so incredibly suseptible to damage :/

VB at 80 sounds good though, haha by then youll have lots of medication for the headaches too 😀

Id love some info on this too. I have an intermittent unit that is likely the crummy green wire harness but Im not 100% sure…gotta look into it more when I get free time.