GeoAnas wrote:
The permanent (soldering) method is far more superior than anything else. I did it on my 2 VBs with great results. You only need a low wattage soldering iron and “nerves from steel” to attempt it first time. If you manage to solder successfully the first screen …there is no way back 😉

This is the way to go. I have repaired 2 virtual boys with this method and both are now fully functional. It is a bit of a pain but I think it is the good solution.

Where do you live in the US? If you are in AZ I could help you out.

If you are going to get a bit I got mine from this site a year or so ago and after dremeling of a bit it worked perfectly.
http://www.classicgamesource.com/proddetail.php?prod=309589004&cat=100&PHPSESSID=45548ee98830ed1d9a399934398dc4c4

He is nuts. Smaller indie games have always been hard to do on consoles making a cart alone costs a decent amount of money. With most consoles now having online stores/marketplaces there has been a huge resurgence of 2d/indie games that can all be sold for under $20. Hopefully nintendo will continue to improve their online store and attract some good developers like the guys that did the bit trip series and we could see some great games for the 3DS.

For example look at the xbox if I go to a physical store I cant really buy many 2d games but the marketplace I can get Super Meatboy, Braid, N+, Limbo, and many more all for under $20 and all 2d indie games.

akumie wrote:
Last time I checked $ did not mean euro or pounds -_-

I have seen my fare share of confusion over people using the wrong symbol. Also I know that all the older FlashBoys have been sold in euros and I see MineStorm is located in GB so I just wanted to make sure.

MineStorm wrote:
Chris is tied up with exams for the next 3 months. So, I will be both making and distributing them now.

If you want one, you need to send me a donor cart. This will guarantee you get a cart (a sort of pre-order).

I will be making these on a one-by-one basis, so be prepared to wait at least 2 weeks from the donor cart getting to me and your FlashBoy+ being dispatched.

The package will consist of the cart and USB cable (no box) the new price of $100 (+shipping) reflects this.

Anyway, if you are interested, please Email me at –

richard.hutchinson@dsl.pipex.com

Thankyou

Just emailed you.

Also I asked this question in the email but I figured I would ask here for others as well. Is the price $100 in US dollars, euros, or pounds?

Thanks

Hey RunnerPack I will see I can put get a pic of the screws and the package next time I go to home depot/lowes. The fit was good too they were very similar dimensions.

Antoine BCN I have tried to pen trick but couldn’t get it to work I get the premise and I got the pen molded to the shape of the screw but actually turning the screw just messes up the plastic of the pen and the screw doesn’t turn. Maybe with a bunch of pens and a bunch of time you could get them out but I ruined a half dozen pens and didn’t even get one screw out. Then about a year later I just bit the bullet and ordered the bit fixed my VB that same night I got it.

Heliowalton wrote:
I bought a bit from this site. It is just the right length to pop out of the hole. However, you do still need to file down the edges near the stem in order to prevent it from scraping the holes wider.

Also, they accept paypal, which is quite handy.

Resurrecting this thread just to say I bought the bit referenced in the site above and they shipped quick got it within a week and after I shaved off a little bit of the hex part with my dremel it worked great. I fixed two VB with glitchy displays and replaced the screws with regular phillips head screws from Lowes. If anybody in the Phoenix area needs to open a VB let me know I would have no problem lending you the bit for a while or just meeting up just to remove your screws on the spot.

Just fixed two of my Virtual Boys with this method thanks a ton Mbuchman!!!

This was actually pretty easy to do with the right materials I did need to find the right setting on my soldering iron to melt the plastic but once that happened I just got everything soldered up and it was good. I did move a pin or two but with the help of a tiny screw driver they were put back into place. I also used the 40/60 rosin core solder. I fixed one VB that had a glitchy display and one that had a completely none working display.

Thanks a ton for posting this info.