So my nice new NTSC RGB VirtualTap has arrived! However it seems as I should have done my research- the only output wiring diagram I can find is for a SCART connector, which I don’t use being in Canada/North America.
Google hasn’t been helpful in looking for other options, so can any video-format savvy folks help me out? Thanks.
Not a game, but last year I found out about official Nintendo/Mario cabinets and such (made in the late 80s I think?), which I had never even heard of before. A little while later I managed to snag one in good condition for a reasonable price!
It’s designed to hold a NES on one of the right shelves, games on the bottom, a TV on top with a storage area on the left for accessories.
Wow, that’s a great deal! I paid much more for mine years ago. In case anyone’s interested, the dimensions of the medallion are 2 cm wide and 2.5 mm thick.
One of the good things about collecting stuff from Nintendo’s toy era is even though they’re rare and sought-after, they’re not as ‘mainstream’ as collecting their early video games- meaning that you can still get great deals on them if you shop around. (That probably won’t last forever though, so get ’em while you can!) The Love Tester is an exception (which always goes for a fortune), as well as some of their later, lesser-produced toys.
I made a box (from thin cardboard) to hold my loose cartridges- painted red and black, of course! I plan to make a new one from thin (1/4″) plywood soon.
Did you using the same controller to test the consoles? If so, it’s likely a controller issue rather than a console problem. The first thing I’d check is to see if the battery contacts are dirty or corroded.
It looks like a capacitor that broke. It could have failed due to a power surge or due to being defective. They’re not too difficult to replace.
There appears to be a fuse below it (the cylinder above the coil of wire)- that may have been blown as well.
It’s difficult to know exactly what caused it- maybe there’s a short somewhere, or something else in the power supply has failed.
(and as a bit of a disclaimer, be careful when poking around power supplies, as they could still have harmful voltages in them even after they are unplugged!)
Thanks for the feedback- I’m already working on an improved second version. Once it’s done it will indeed have a red/black color scheme!
I wasn’t originally planning on making more, but if there’s demand I certainly would consider selling them. Once I finish making the improved version I’ll add up the cost of materials to come up with a baseline price.
I noticed the same type of ‘glitching’ while watching a playthru of VB Wario Land on Youtube- for example it happens when Wario was jumping from the foreground to the background and vice versa.
My guess is that the emulator can only properly display the sprite when it’s either in the foreground or in the background. The ROM is probably OK. I’m no expert of course, but that’s my observation.
Actually, you’re right- as it turned out, there was a bit of loose solder was shorting out one of the traces on the left display (which caused the problem to occur on both displays. Weird!). That’ll teach me not to repair things at 2AM!
So now I have a solder-fixed VB that will hopefully last me a long time- hooray!
OK, so I finally decided to attempt the soldering fix on one of my VBs, and there’s good news and bad news-
The good news is that it seemed to go smoothly and the glitchyness that used to be there is now gone. The bad news is that appears to be a new problem- at a certain screen brightness, the position of the screen image is shifted vertically. For bright games like Mario Clash & WarioLand it works fine, but for dimmer games like Teleroboxer and Vertical Force, part of the lower screen is on the top. Does anyone know what could be causing this? It happens equally on both displays. Hopefully I didn’t ruin anything.
I’ll try swapping the displays with my other VB to see what happens.
This reply was modified 10 years, 6 months ago by TerryJ.