Thanks for at least looking at it, though that still doesn’t solve my problem that I want to change my email address. Did I miss an option or is it not possible atm?
Nahhh, you never offended me. Though IE8 is as secure as FF, might be a bit slower though. The biggest problem with IE is that it still is the most widely used browser and thus the most interesting program to write virusses for.
IE is still used by more than 50% of the internet users, so if PVB would work on IE as it should, it would be a nice advertisement for PVB!
Not really important why, it is my choice. And in IE I see there is a big problem with the format of the site. Though it used to be good until a few months ago that is.
EDIT:
And don’t go saying: FF or Chrome is better! That would not suit a Virtual Boy user, as most new consoles are technically better than VB 😛
I have had the brightness problem before and it went away with soldering the ribbon cable. Doesn’t say it will solve it for you, but it might certainly be the glitchy display problem….. Only real problem of the VB design in my opinion. Though when you have solved it by soldering, you are a happy camper and it won’t return!
wazzal wrote:
So my VB went glitchy in the right eye. This is the third one I’ve had fail, but this time I have no return option from the seller so I have to fix it my self.
I’ve researched the methods out there and this seems to be the the easiest one for me.
I have researched a bit into it and noticed that since the copper is very thin, I’d be afraid of it melting. Currently I have a 30w soldering iron, which heats up to 800 degrees F, or about 420 degrees C, so that leaves me with a question.
What temperature should the soldering iron be?
At 420 C it worked for me, sometimes I even had to up my station (mine can go to 550 C). Lower than 420 C was kinda useless in my particular case. Good luck! And when it is done, you will be madly proud to own a Virtual Boy where the displays will always work without problems that are flex cable related!
mbuchman wrote:
I cannot find where I put my bit right now, but I am sure other people have posted the same solution.
All you do is make the shaft part a little longer by grinding away the hex part. Then cut a groove in the top of the hex part, because to get out the deep screws, the socket on the driver will hit the case, so you cut a notch so that you can use a flat-head or fillips screwdriver instead of the socket driver.
Hopefully this all makes sense, if not then search for it, I know someone has to have posted pictures.
Anyway, it is non-destructive, so you can use it normally for everything except the deep sockets.
Ideally you could spin it on a lathe to take off the material. I used a table sander. The bare minimum would be a file and do it by hand.
I found the link to DogP his guide on it! http://www.projectvb.com/tech/securitybit.html
I did this as well, though in stead of using the grinder I used a plain old Dremel. Took me long enough, but did the job as well, not everyone has a grinder 😛
I really like it as well! Pays great homage to the Virtual Boy! IT stimulates people to enter the contest, but at the same time shows what to expect from the VB.
pocket wrote:
This is the most advanced soldering I’ve ever had to do. I’m a bit discouraged, solder seems to sit on top of the brown goo. My first attempt knocked some of the connections around a bit, so to say Im having trouble is an understatement. I would say that the trick is to touch nothing except solder, and move the ball around… but it doesn’t seem to penetrate the adhesive very well. Sodium Hyrdoxide seems to have little effect on the adhesive. I am using oven cleaner, as weapons-grade lye is pretty hard to come by. Advice is greatly appreciated from anyone who has gone through this- I have read every post thus far on the topic and I am still overwhelmed. Its so small! Failure is not an option, I have a bunch that need this procedure.
Yeah, you shouldn’t touch the copper wires embedded in the plastic if you can avoid it! The trick is to set the iron to a nice hot temperature, though be careful not setting it too hot. If so, you could burn up the copper wires. Just set it higher each time you can’t get the plastic to melt, when it melts you are good. That is the way I did it.
