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Understood
@vaughanabe13Registered February 14, 2010Active 12 years, 1 month ago
310 Replies made

RunnerPack wrote:

Vaughanabe13 wrote:
I just finished playing 3 hours of Killzone 3 in 3D on my 65″ tv with the Move motion controller…yeah, the future is here already. Freakin awesome, I can’t believe people hate on 3D. I loved 3D even back when all I could use were those crappy “eDimensional” shutter glasses for PC. Heck, I even loved this thing: http://www.comingsoon.net/nextraimages/viewmastermovie.jpg

That sounds so fun! But don’t make fun of my eDimensionals! >:( 😉

Also, your link is broken. I think this page has the image you wanted: http://www.comingsoon.net/news/movienews.php?id=56857

Maybe with 3D coming back, Fisher-Price will update the VM with LCDs and USB or HDMI…

My link isn’t broken on my end, it links directly to the picture just fine.

The eDimensionals were cool but had horrible software support. They didn’t work in most games and you also had to have a very specific kind of monitor – and even then you would still get a good amount of flickering and ghosting.

Ok, assuming that is actually possible and will work, what exactly will you get out of this “stack of time” spent? Seems like a waste to me but I honestly don’t care what other people do with their time. Think on.

Really, do you have new information that there is going to be a DC 2? If you google it, the only things talking about a second dreamcast are several years old.

Hedgetrimmer wrote:

Vaughanabe13 wrote:
Alright, post back when it doesn’t work. I’ve been reading all the preliminary reviews of the 3DS and they all say the 3D camera feature is garbage. You do realize there is no 3D video yet, right? I can’t think of any way this idea would be useful other than a single still image of a VB screen, which would be pretty uneventful for the amount of work it would take to get it to work.

Here is the camera spacing:
http://www.pocket-lint.com/images/dynamic/NEWS-33763-503babb7ddea965699b06398cdfa1b93.jpg

So do you not want me to post if it does work?

Well it won’t work so the point is moot. I’m glad you enjoy life, I do too.

I just finished playing 3 hours of Killzone 3 in 3D on my 65″ tv with the Move motion controller…yeah, the future is here already. Freakin awesome, I can’t believe people hate on 3D. I loved 3D even back when all I could use were those crappy “eDimensional” shutter glasses for PC. Heck, I even loved this thing: http://www.comingsoon.net/nextraimages/viewmastermovie.jpg

At least it sounds like they didn’t have a unit with the glitchy displays. Can you imagine!?!?!

Hedgetrimmer wrote:
All speculation for now, I’ll be giving it a go just to see if something can be seen, all points mentioned seem relevant, I think an image of some sort will be generated but how clear etc is another matter, I’ll know in a few days, it was only ever a fleeting thought i had on a hazy evening last week. 😀

Alright, post back when it doesn’t work. I’ve been reading all the preliminary reviews of the 3DS and they all say the 3D camera feature is garbage. You do realize there is no 3D video yet, right? I can’t think of any way this idea would be useful other than a single still image of a VB screen, which would be pretty uneventful for the amount of work it would take to get it to work.

Here is the camera spacing:
http://www.pocket-lint.com/images/dynamic/NEWS-33763-503babb7ddea965699b06398cdfa1b93.jpg

I can’t link directly to it because Menards’ website sucks, but I got a magnifying lamp spring-arm from Menards in the lighting department. At my local Menards it was the only spring-arm lamp or magnifier they had. Cost about $40. To modify it, I cut the power cord for the magnifier on both ends and then the magnifier just screws off. Now there were two triangle pieces on the end but the VB stand assembly wouldn’t fit through both of them so I had to unscrew one of them. Then I drilled through the mounting hole because the VB stand screw was too big to fit the original hole. Then I dismantled the VB stand and tried to screw the mounting clip/bracket onto the end of the spring arm, but it was too loose and ended up flopping around. So I went to the hardware store and bought 4 washers/spacers and put them in between the VB stand screw and the end of the spring arm. Screwed everything tight and then you can pop the VB on and off just like you do on the normal stand.

Total cost: $40 for the magnifier + a few washers

It’s incredible, I can actually sit back in my chair with proper posture, pull the VB up to my face and plug the controller in. The only downside is I have to adjust it again to get a new game in/out.

DogP wrote:

Vaughanabe13 wrote:
All you would see on the 3DS screen through the cameras is a couple of red dots at best. If you think about the way the VB displays work, there isn’t an actual LCD screen displaying the images, it’s all done via a 2D array of LED’s and scanning mirrors. If you tried to take a picture of it with anything, the picture wouldn’t have any discernible image because unlike your eyes, it can’t use the persistence-of-vision effect to piece together the image over time. The only way would be to use some kind of long exposure picture, but even if that was possible there are a host of other problems that would make it impossible.

That’s not true… cameras do have a sense of persistence of vision… it’s the exposure time. That’s why we can take pictures of the VB screens, as well as a CRT. If you have a really short exposure time then yes, you’ll only see what has happened on the screen in that short amount of time, but in the VB’s case, 1/50th of a second isn’t that long of an exposure (especially since it’s fairly dim, so an auto-exposure will likely be at least that long).

And just to be anal about your argument… it’s actually a 1D column of LEDs (not 2D array, that’d be like a plain LCD display), and with a really fast exposure, you’d see a column, not just a few dots 😉 .

I do think it’d sorta work, but probably be low quality, and maybe too laggy to play. That’d be really cool if they had a video input to the 3DS… then I could hook up my VB TV adapter and play it in high resolution digitally converted goodness 🙂 .

DogP

I’d be willing to bet my life savings it won’t work. The camera spacing on the 3DS would never be able to pick up each VB screen without crosstalk. Also I know how the display works, I just didn’t do a good job of explaining it. the camera would see a 2D array but it would be all blurred because the 3DS/DS has horrible cameras.

And even if any of this were possible it still wouldn’t work because sources say the “3d picture” feature of the 3DS is crap and doesn’t even work well at all.

All you would see on the 3DS screen through the cameras is a couple of red dots at best. If you think about the way the VB displays work, there isn’t an actual LCD screen displaying the images, it’s all done via a 2D array of LED’s and scanning mirrors. If you tried to take a picture of it with anything, the picture wouldn’t have any discernible image because unlike your eyes, it can’t use the persistence-of-vision effect to piece together the image over time. The only way would be to use some kind of long exposure picture, but even if that was possible there are a host of other problems that would make it impossible.

I’m really underwhelmed by the launch games. I think they need to have a really strong start with good first party games and so far there doesn’t seem to be anything particularly amazing that will be a must-have title. I guess you could argue Pilot Wings but I really don’t have any nostalgic connection to that game like some people do.

gunpeiyokoifan wrote:
I think I want Cosmo Black (and just get some sort of case or cover thats red) but sometimes I wonder if I got a Cosmo Black 3DS would Nintendo almost instantly announce a Red or Red/Black 3DS?

but then if I waited and the 3DS failed I’d get no Red 3DS and feel bad that I didn’t get the 3DS and feel that I was the one of the people who made it fail 😉

You can rest assured that Nintendo won’t announce any new colors for at least a year after release.

mbuchman wrote:
The Rs and Cs seem kind of awkwardly placed… aren’t you supposed to put one right next to each ram chip and the uc? Or is that what C1 and C3 are for? (but nothing looks to be by “SAVE_SRAM”)

You should get your artist on and hand route the next one. Autoroute looks funny, and makes tracing a real pain (which will make debugging crappy). But at least there is no shortage in vias for test points!

In a perfect world you want at least one decoupling cap next to critical components but on a small board with (relatively) short signal paths and a good LDO regulator with low output ripple it really shouldn’t be an issue. There is sufficient smoothing on the LDO which is at a different voltage than the VB, so fluctuations in VB voltage should not have much of an effect on the board. There are a couple caps that may seem random but I assure you it took me hours upon hours to find a place to put them among the mess of traces and vias. The caps were placed last. In the final design I am going to elongate the board which will give me more room for extra caps and such. I think people are forgetting that this is still a prototype and is by no means final.

I hand routed about 85% of that board. The initial pre-route was handled by an autorouter just to get me “in the ballpark” as far as which way to route certain bus signals. Then from there I had about 120 no-connects that I had to route, re-route, and re-route until I could fit everything in. I probably worked over 30 hours on the routing in total. I’m not really sure why it matters either way as long as it works…? I did spend an extra 3 or 4 hours trying to eliminate vias and with this many traces on a small 2-layer board it’s just not possible unless you’re a routing god or something.

  • This reply was modified 13 years, 8 months ago by Vaughanabe13.
  • This reply was modified 13 years, 8 months ago by Vaughanabe13.

e5frog wrote:
So, next time make sure you make the PCB right and if that works then it’s done for production. 😉

What’s the standard pinout you expected, can’t you buy some other chip with the expected pinout instead?

I wonder though if it could all be compressed into fitting a standard cart shell…

You don’t need to solder headers on each card, there’s spring loaded probe connectors you can attach to your programmer and press against the holes. IIRC these are pretty expensive, looks like miniature gold drill heads.

Eager to see it work.

A typical TSOP package has pin 1 starting in the upper left hand corner where the dot is, and pin 48 in the lower right corner. Sure enough, the part I have to use has a nonstandard layout where it puts pin 1 in the center of one side and pin 48 in the center of the other side, so they are all jumbled around. If you’ve designed PCBs before you know it’s next to impossible to design a board perfectly without several revisions. This is only my first revision and I had about 4 months in between revisions because of school – it’s nearly impossible to catch every single mistake. Plus I’m sure I’ll have to make some other small changes once I start debugging.

I’m not going to solder a programming header onto the card. If you look closely you will see that I used a “locking” pattern for the programming header so you can insert the header and have it hold from friction. This way I can insert a header for programming and then remove it without having to desolder and make a mess.

MasterOfPuppets wrote:
Wow, first time reading through this thread and I have to say great job, I’m really looking forward to this! Question though, on your site it says…

I will go with a “bare pcb” design that does not fit inside a VB donor cartridge.

Will it fit into a modified donor cart though?

There’s no possible way to fit this design into a donor cart if I use a 2-layer board. I could go to a 4 or more layer design but those are way too expensive to prototype for a guy just out of college and not much money.

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

The only components that aren’t loaded at this point are the button, programming header, and the save SRAM.

Fwirt wrote:
Or you could do some craaaazy green wiring on the SRAM since it’s only a prototype. 😯 Good to hear it’s coming along. I guess we’ll hope to see some screenshots soon!

I would have to buy an expensive daughter board for the SRAM chip and then spend hours soldering wires to the pads on the PCB – I don’t think it’s worth it for the amount of effort. There is no way I could solder bare wires to the pins without a daughter PCB, there would be tons of shorts because the pins are so freakin tiny.

Without that last SRAM it took me almost 2 hours to assemble the board. Granted it was my first full board assembly and I was doing it without any paste or oven, but still.

I’ll post pics when the assembly is done. And then it’s a mountain of software and clever engineering ahead of me.

Good news, the boards got here yesterday and I’m almost done assembling them. I just have to touch up a few of the SMD components at work since I don’t have high precision soldering equipment at home. The only problem I have noticed so far is the save SRAM chip is wrong – I didn’t find out until ordering the part that this chip uses a non-standard pin layout. So either I’m stuck with no save SRAM support on this prototype or I’ll need to find an alternate part that has the correct pin layout.

Other than that, the board seems good and I’m excited to start testing it.

I really hate the 3-color blue scheme they have going on. I would definitely go with black even though it seems like the more boring option.