retronintendonerd wrote:
The crack is the part of the clip. Sorry for not being clear on that. I have clay that I will use to form a mold of the clip on top of the stand since both sides are symmetrical and the other half is intact. Then I will pour my liquid plastic/resin into the mold after it has taken its form. I will then use some strong glue and attach and sand down uneven parts. It’s not a quick job but it should work regardless
If the clip is cracked, or even broken, solvent would be a good fix. I have in my hand a can of “Weld-On”, by IPS corporation in Gardena Ca (www.ipscorp.com). It’s thinner than water, and aggressively dissolves the plastic. You put just a drop or two on a crack (or hold a completely broken piece together), and the plastic bonds in seconds. Full strength in a few hours. That should be fine for the clip, if you lay the clip piece down on something flat and push the “solvent-welded pieces” together & allow to dry, should be plenty strong enough.
Solvent likes to run under one’s fingers if you’re not careful, leaving a very nice detailed finger-print in the plastic!
RE “making a mold” and using resin (polyester resin? With black pigment?) — resin is pretty strong. I use paraffin for molds; but the resin has to be popped out when it’s gelled, LONG before it hardens. Pull the resin as soon as it gels (and lay on waxed paper to harden), it pops out of the wax easily. Wait for it to fully harden, and the only way it separates from the wax is by melting the wax!
I don’t have experience with clay molds. Is it the “sculpy” kind that you catalyze in the oven (turning it into something like rubber)? You might consider making some cuts into the remaining clip piece (“stump”), forming fingers. Then put the broken clip in the mold — the resin will form matching fingers, and bond to the plastic clip (no glue needed). A glue-bond on the old break line won’t be as strong as the original plastic (and THAT broke!). If the connection between the new material and the old is made with “fingers”, it would be much stronger…
If ya’ don’t have the broken-off piece it’s kinda moot, the only approach is to make a new piece.
There’s a post on PVB about having a new clip “3D-printed”; that would be ideal, and fillets can be added so it won’t break again.
morintari wrote:
Let’s not forget Bound High, it’s easily the best game for the system. Oh and you might want to pick up a flashboy too for all of your homebrew needs, and to play all of the games ever released to boot ;-):vb:
At this point, I think the “flashboy” will be essential to playing Bound High (I agree it’s the best game). I don’t think the cart is available now.
“Red Alarm” has many Easter-eggs (hidden features), such as two bikini-girls. It is among the best exploits of the “3D”.
There are lots of hidden rooms in “Wario Land”, another must-have game; and each level needs a key to advance to the next level, usually the key is in a hidden room. “Mario Clash” has a secret feature that I discovered — that’s my comment on “Virtualboy.org”. 🙂
I also like “Space Squash”, often on ebay for $100. “Japan Only”, it should have been released to US.
If you like puzzles “Tetris” is available in two forms, US and JAPAN versions do play differently. The US one has great 3D, and a puzzle mode where you have to build some object with the provided pieces (like a truck, elephant, helicopter) — when completed the object comes to life and runs off the screen.
RE “pixel out” — let’s hope it is just a dust speck. You might move your eye up and down on a screen that displays lots of solid background; if the line moves at all, it’s dust (or a micro-crack in the clear bezel); if it doesn’t move then could be an LED out. I’ve tried to fix the fine wires on LED’s and IC’s before, with very little success; the chances of you damaging other LED’s while trying to fix the one are high. I haven’t tried a “spring-loaded whisker”, sounds good in concept.
Welcome here, and good luck with your display!